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DESCRIPTIVE BOOK 

THE TOUR OF EUROPE 

THE LARGEST 

MOVING PANORAMA 

IN THE WORLD. 



NOW EXHIBITING AT THE 



CHINESE ROOMS, BROADWAY, NEW-YORK. 




7V 



PAINTED ON THIRTY THOUSAND SQUARE FEET OF CANVASS, FROM 

VIEWS TAKEN ON THE SPOT, AND AT AN EXPENSE 

OF TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS, 



J. R. SMIT 



ARTIST OF THE CELEBRATED PANORAMA OF THE MISSISSIPPI, WHICH HAS BEEN EXHIBITED 
WITH DISTINGUISHED SUCCESS IN THE UNITED STATES, LONDON, DUBLIN, EDIN- 
BURGH, PARIS, BRUSSELS, ROUEN, BERLIN, ANTWERP, VIENNA, ETC. 



Pianist: — MR. AYLWIN FIELD. 



NEW-YORK : 

PETTTNER & GRAY, PRINTERS, 10 SPRUCE STREET. 

1 $5r>. 









AUG 2 ^ 1940 



V 






PREFACE. 



A Panorama is a moving lesson, a pictorial gnide, a refined and 
elegant manner of bringing before the mind of the spectator the 
appearance and characteristics of different countries ; and when 
property conceived and executed, forms a means of cultivating a 
public taste for the fine arts and of directing the attention of 
many to seek after solid intellectual entertainment instead of light 
frivolous buffoonery, to view a something that when you shall 
have returned home you can say, I have added a great deal to 
my stock of information, I have a better idea of certain things — 
I am more qualified than before to give an opinion on that sub- 
ject ; the mind has been set to work, an impression has been made 
that will cause you to reflect and to seek further after knowledge. 
Such is a panorama when properly presented to the world ; and 
children will learn more in two hours of the geography of Euro] >e 
than in months at school, and children of a larger growth smile 
and be instructed. 

Having originated the Panorama of the Mississippi in 1S39 and 
exhibited it in America and London, and the provincial towns 
with great success, it occurred to me, that having brought a river 
3,000 miles long across the Atlantic, I should endeavor to take 
back the principal part of Europe in return therefor. 

Taking advantage of my travels on the Continent with the Pa- 
norama of the Mississippi, to make sketches and to obtain correct 
views of different cities, I have embodied the whole into an im- 
mense moving diorama, in order to carry out this intention, and 
to lay it before the world as an agreeable and useful amount of 
information, and upon which the public can rely for its accuracy ; 
and it is presumed that the subjects selected will prove of absorb- 
ing interest, both as regards their faithful pictorial illustration 
and correct historical information, — and that they are so in 
reality, we may judge from the vast number of persons, Euro- 
peans and Americans, who annually travel this or similar routes 



in search of. the picturesque and beautiful,. or for health and pas- 
time, and to either the travelled or untravelled, it will be found 
highly interesting to review this tour for one evening ; to see the 
characteristics of the Gorman, Swiss, and Italian ; to rove amid 
the Glaciers, explore the ruins of Pompeii, or the ashes of Vesu- 
vius, and to hear their peculiarities explained ; to bring before the 
vision the beau ideal of manners, customs and places, of which 
we have read and heard, and refresh the memory with the his- 
torical dates and names of the many celebrated great men and 
master-minds of those places. 

The Telegraph, the Railway, and the Steamboat have been 
making great changes and doing their utmost to bring about a 
brotherhood of nations ; — may not also the pencil of the artist 
claim its share in this great work ? Here we have the exploration 
of a Continent showing in a pictorial form the energies of past 
ages, and many of the great features of the present civilized and 
intellectual world. This Panorama has been successfully exhi- 
bited in many of the places it represents ; in Copenhagen 60,000 
persons visited it, and by command, his Majesty the King of 
Denmark and Court — also in Hamburgh, Lubec, and in Berlin, 
where it was patronized by the royal family of Prussia and 40,000 
visitors : in Breslau, an hour before the opening of a night, the 
street was blocked across by the crowd ; in Leipsic and at 
Munich, King Ludwig, Queen Marie, Queen Therese and Princes 
and Duke Max came in grand State. All have expressed them- 
selves as highly delighted, and I hope my toils and exertions may 
meet with the same approbation in England as it did before I 
went to the Continent. At Birmingham, Messrs. G. F. Muntz, 
andW. Sholefield, Esq., Members of Parliament, kindly placed it 
under their patronage ; at Manchester, at Leeds, was an immense 
number, and at Hull, the Mayor appointed extra police for the 
crowd of the Tour of Europe, and now I make my appeal to a 
London audience — hoping I may merit the patronage and appro- 
bation of the metropolis of the world, (October, 1S54 :) and that 
appeal was successful. I gave 600 representations to half a million 
of persons, and the public press gave many long and favorable 
criticisms, and the last six months my rooms were crowded twice 
a day. 



In JSTew-York, the picture is highly successful, the audiences 
are daily increasing, and those who have kindly patronized me in 
this city have been unanimous in their expression of approval as 
one of the most useful and interesting exhibitions ever presented 
to any public. Gen. "Webb, of the Courier and Enquirer, gave a 
very kind notice of the Panorama : " We were one of a party who 
accompanied our minister in London to witness its first presen- 
tation to the British public. It was assuredly the most effective 
diorama we have ever seen, and richly merited the high en- 
comiums passed upon it by the press and the public ; it cannot 
fail to be successful here." 

The views are on an immense scale, being 40 feet wide, and 
showing 100 views of the principal objects of interest in Europe. 
The greatest care has been taken to render the musical department 
one of the most interesting features of the exhibition, and Mr. 
Aylwin Field of London has, by his arrangement of the Piano 
Amico, the first ever used in this country, added greatly to the in- 
terest of the Tableaux, giving the national airs of each country as 
the views pass along. And as Mr. Field has accompanied the 
picture through Europe from Copenhagen to Munich and had the 
honor of playing before the Kings and Courts of Europe, he has had 
many facilities of arranging the music characteristic of the country 
exhibited, and would form an exhibition of itself. In Denmark, 
Prussia, Silesia, and Bavaria, Professor Chas. Alex. Hartkopff 
was the lecturer, he speaking seven languages fluently, but in 
England and America I have always given the explanation and 
lecture myself. 

J. K. Smith. 



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The Panorama moves alternately each representation — com- 
mencing one evening with the Abbey of St. Ouen, the next with 
the Geotto of Antiparos, when yon commence at the back of 
the book. 

The tonrist is supposed to have arrived in France, and en- 
countered all the French vexations of visee of Police and Pass- 
ports, and passed through the unmeaning towns of Boulogne, 
Havre, or Calais, and on the next morning to have arrived at 
Rouen, 1 — 80 miles from Paris. 



ARRIVAL AT ROUEN, France.— Air, " La Normandie." 

Six subjects : viz. 

1. The Chut?oii and Abbey of St. Ouen. — 2. Porte Massacre; 
or, The Gros b oge. — 3. Hotel de Bourthgoulde, Prison 
of Joan of Arc, with the statue in front, erected to her memory, 
on the spot where she was burnt. — 4. Rue Tabac, Old Street. 
5. Side view of the Old Cathedral of Notre Dame. — 6. Front 
view of the same and flower market. 

ROUEN. — A Town of Gaul. — The Romans built external walls 
and it became an important town under them, and during the first 
ages of Christianity, the Apostles coining into and fixing their 
abode in Rouen, that the sacred word might be spread through 
the surrounding country, Saint Mellon was its most ancient Bishop, 
after him for five or six centuries succeeded a long list of Bishops 
and Saints, until the year 912, when Rollo was created Duke of 
Normandy. The proud Norwegian becomes the benefactor of the 
country he had so long proved a scourge, and Rouen rises from its 
ruin to great political importance ; it has stood many sieges and 
been often taken and retaken by the Roman, Norman, German, 
English and French forces. — Rouen is called the Manchester of 
France, but they will not bear comparison. 



8 

The population is 100,000. As a pictorial city it is full of old 
buildings, old churches, and tumble-down houses ; it is the most 
beautiful ancient spot I ever beheld, some old streets, that look 
more fit for pigs to live in than people, full of poor wretches with 
their quaint costumes, yet there are magnificent houses, modern 
and fashionable, — few and far between, — there are, at every short 
distance, splendid relics of old churches, many used as brandy 
warehouses, old rag shops, lead and zinc warehouses, &c. There 
were once 36 churches in this town, when its population did not 
exceed 20,000. Since the French Eevolution, 1673, most of them 
are closed, and there are only five or six now in use, the others 
turned into anything they can rent them for • among the perfect 
remains in use is — 

11q. 1.— The Church and Abbey of St. Ouen, 

Founded in 533, during the reign of Clothaire I. and the Epis- 
copate of Flavins XVI. Archbishop of Rouen. In 841 the Nor- 
wegians took Rouen and burnt the Abbey of St. Ouen. Rollo having 
become converted to Christianity, restored the Abbey ; it was 
afterwards burnt in 1236, and again in 1248. It was in 1303 rebuilt 
after 21 years labour, at a oust of 2,000,000 francs. Its stained glass 
is unrivalled, it has 125 windows ; the effect of the sun through 
the great rose window (as I saw it on a Sunday afternoon, during 
service), with the red, blue and yellow tints over the congrega- 
tion, and the hundreds of candles on the altar, the gorgeous gold 
trappings of the priests, the smoke of the incense, and the swelling 
melody of the organ, was one of the most splendid pageants you 
could wish to see. 

Besides the churches there is the Palais de Justice, a mag- 
nificent pile of gothic architecture, built 1499, about 200 feet of 
frontage, ornamented in the richest style of gothic art. 

Mo. 2.— The Tower of the Gros Horologe, 

or Great Clock. 

The bell was cast in 1447. The arch is called Porte Massa- 
cre, and the fountain is very antique and j>retty. 

No. 3.— Place de Pucelle. 

This is the spot where Joan of Arc was burnt by the English, 
in 1431, and the Hotel de Bourthgoulde, the site of the prison 
from which she was led to the stake and also the same building 
where the English parliament held its sittings, during the Union 
of France and England. In the centre of the square, and upon 
the spot where Jean of Arc perished by fire, is erected her statue, 
in commemoration of the unfortunate' Maid of Orleans — which 



sanguinary act, in destroying the noblest woman that ever breathed, 
was a fearful disgrace to the title of man and country. 

No. 4,— Rue Tabac. 

Of this I made a very accurate sketch, always a crowd around 
you, while drawing in the street. It gives a good idea of the 
antique houses, with the kennel down the centre, and without side 
walks ; but turn the corner to the Quai Napoleon, and you have 
splendid modern stone-houses, of which the French have no equal. 

No. 5.— Cathedral— Notre Dame of Rouen. 

Perhaps the most splendid and picturesque gothic edifice in the 
world ; the one at Cologne, if finished, would not be half so 
picturesque, and Milan, though of white marble, will never look 
like this grey venerable pile, with its iron steeple, 436 feet high 
(the spire in Vienna is 21 feet higher, 13 feet less than the highest 
pyramid) ; I ascended it, and it is one of the grandest structures I 
ever witnessed, all of cast iron, and if painted a light stone colour 
instead of black, would look beautiful ; it was formerly built of 
wood, but was destroyed by fire, for the second time, in 1 822, and 
once, when of stone, was struck by lightning, and destroyed ; this 
Church, therefore, had the present one made of cast-iron. In 
1500 the steeple had a large bell 20 feet round and 10 feet high, 
weighed 36,000 lbs. On the first visit of Louis XYI. to Rouen, 
the bell was cracked, and during the French Revolution was con- 
verted into cannon. The Church is 100 feet wide, 450 feet long, 
and over 90 feet high, and the stained glass windows are very 
fine — of the thirteenth century. The tombs are few and unimportant 
to visitors, — viz. Rollo's, that of Peter de Breeze, Count de 
Senchenel of Anjou, killed in battle, and his grandson. Near the 
altar, in a lead box, is the heart of Richard Coenr de Lion : the 
English Duke of Bedford is also buried here, who was at the 
burning of Joan of Arc. In 1200 this Church was destroyed by 
fire ; Jean sans Terre, Duke of Normandy and King of England, 
assigned the funds for rebuilding it, and from this the present 
Cathedral dates — it was the work of several centuries to accom- 
plish it. 

This Church and all the Churches have been much mutilated 
by the Calvinists, in 1562, who broke off the heads of the stat- 
ues, &c. 

The Butter Tower is 230 feet high, built by alms of the faithful 
who obtained permission to eat butter during Lent by subscribing 
to build this tower, a common practice in Europe, (the Bridge at 
Dresden.) The exterior of this Cathedral is covered with Orna- 
ments, Tracery, Statues, Dragons, &c. 

There are two views of this Cathedral in the Panorama — one 



10 

with the procession of the Conseils, as I viewed it, July, 1850, and 
from an oil painting I made on the spot ; not far from this 
Church, and nearly in a line at the back of it, is that little gem of 
gothic architecture, the Church of St. Malou, built in 1511, which 
was never completed. There are also in use — St. Patrice ; St. 
Godard ; St. Vincent, with stained glass, by Albrecht Diirer, 
— all very beautiful. 

I would, by far, prefer seeing Eouen to Paris; it is all pic- 
turesque beauty ; the exteriors of the Cathedrals are unrivalled. 
I never saw any gothic interior superior to Westminster Abbey, 
London ; next to which comes Antwerp, but you have in each a 
dozen Churches to admire, in London but one, but through the rest 
of Europe I saw nothing to compare with Rouen and Antwerp. 
Around the city are splendid Boulevards, near 4 miles round, 
covered with shady trees, occupying the place of the old fortifi- 
cations, and the surrounding country is very beautiful. Never 
say, you saw Paris without stopping 3 or 4 days at Rouen at least ; 
half an hour is long enough for Havre. 

Distance from Paris by Railroad 85 miles ; Time 4 hours : 
Fare (2d class) 13 francs, and on the direct route from Paris, 
Dieppe and London. 



PARIS— BY DAY. 

National Hymn, " La Marseillaise." 

GENERAL ASPECT OF PARIS. 

The great centre of the continental world — the beau monde 
of Fashion, and La Belle France, with its high schools of Medi- 
cine, Chemistry, and Painting: what a change from the black 
smoke of mighty London to the clear blue sunny skies of France. 
London is vast, Paris is magnificent ; the shops in London are far 
more numerous and superb, but the beautiful Parks, the Tuilleries, 
Champs Elysees — on a summer evening, the Arc de Triomphe, 
Bois de Boulogne, Fontainebleau, and the excursions around to 
St. Cloud, Yersailles, &c. — all connected by railroads and cheap 
fares, and the vast collection of Paintings and Statues in the 
Louvre, and the ceilings, decorations, and marble walls. Paris 
has no equal. Those who do not speak French, may feel dis- 
appointed at first, soon afterwards their recollections will be of the 
most pleasant kind, if not blinded by prejudice ; the polite and 
liberal manner in which their Public Galleries are thrown open 
free to all strangers, is worthy of the highest praise. 

This view is from the Place de la Concorde. Li the centre is 
the Egyptian Pyramid from Luxor, on each side are beautiful 



11 

Fountains — facing which are the magnificent gardens and palace 
of the TuillerieSj formerly the residence of Kings. 

The Palace was built by Mary de Medici ; beyond which is the 
Louvre, with its immense collection of Fine Arts, Pictures by 
Rubens, and all the old Masters, Drawings, Statues, Vases, and 
many Roman Antique Statues, Yases and Mosaics — though 
inferior to the Vatican at Rome, is wonderfully line, and also 
what glorious ceilings, such rich allegorical subjects ; they at 
least surpass all I have seen elsewhere; the would-be judges of 
Painting turn up their noses at these ceilings, and stand in rhap- 
sody at a dingy old master, as black as your hat, and the flesh 
tints the color of a side of sole leather. 

The Boulevards is the fashionable promenade, anciently 
the ramparts and fortifications of the old city, which has made it 
the widest street in Paris, it is lined with splendid shops and 
always on the curve it extends about three miles from the Madeline 
Church (built by Napoleon, and* surrounded by Corinthian 
columns, for a Temple of Glory) to the Place de Bastille, that 
terrible prison, which for ages was the scourge of France ; when 
you look at the tall bronze column erected on that spot, and the 
names of those inscribed thereon, who died for their country, and 
the gilt figure of Liberty springing from the top, there is a feeling 
of enthusiasm arises — it is a holy spot — for a people's vengeance 
hurled the tyrants down, and in the place of racks and tortures, 
whips, grey hairs, the axe and orphans' tears, with prisons, walls 
and bars, stands now a pillar of Fame ! a monument to those 
who fell, a beacon to those who live. In a line with this, 
crossing a bridge, is the Jardin des Plantes, with the finest 
botanical garden, living animals, and collections of comparative 
anatomy and mineralogy in the world. Free, all free ! — Sunday 
or Monday — every day, any day, without money, without price ! 
Is not that a noble institution ? 

Notre Dame — the great Cathedral of Paris — stands upon an 
island, where Paris first commenced, when the Parisi, a savage 
tribe of Gauls, were conquered by the Romans, and Paris became 
a Roman city, and vestiges of some aqueducts and baths still 
remain in this quarter. After viewing Rouen, it appears 
insignificant, but it is of greater magnitude than it looks ; probably 
you will be greatly disappointed at first ; the interior is nothing 
but very large plain white-washed Gothic, but pray ascend the 
Tower, ask for the Concierge, (keeper), ascend the winding stairs 
trodden 500 years — see what a beautiful Panorama of Paris, and 
go up among the Towers and Bells, and you will find Notre 
Dame is a wonderful building; but you must cultivate its 
acquaintance before you find it out ; 24 tons of lead upon the 
roof. 



12 

The Luxumbourg Palace, where Marshal Ney was shot in 
1815, and where a few months ago they have erected a splendid 
Statue to his memory, with a most splendid garden, containing 
numerous fountains, noble statues, and such a glorious collection 
of modern pictures by French Artists ; the Chamber of Peers, 
the little Chapel built by Mary de Medici, and her private rooms ; 
do not fail to see them — free. 

The Pantlieon is usually visited the same day as the Luxem- 
bourg, with its tombs — it is a second St. Paul's; there was a 
desperate battle fought here in the last Revolution, the pictures 
are pierced with bullet-holes. The Gobelin Tapestry is also in the 
same day's route, near the Jardin des Plantes. Gobelin Tapestry 
and carpet of the present day are nearly equal to the finest oil 
pictures, but ten times more expensive, and is supported by the 
Government. — Free ! Go and see it ! These are too expensive for 
sale, only for royal presents. There is no secrecy where is no 
humbug! From the Place de Bastile, you take the omnibus to 
Pc. la Chaise, the Cemetery where Marshal Key lies, a singular 
place, with some beautiful tombs. But having seen Mount 
Auburn and Greenwood Cemetery, in the United States, both 
much superior in every respect ; there are, also, the Palais Royal 
and the Bourse, (or Exchange) — both splendid buildings. I 
exhibited the Mississippi 2 months in Paris. 



PARIS— BY NIGHT. 

Serenade — " O Summer Night," from Don Pasquale. 

La Place de la Concorde, with the Egyptian Obelisk from Lux- 
or, Thebes, in the centre, where the Guillotine once stood, and 
where thousands fell in the days of terror : on the right is the 
Chamber of Deputies, Hotel des Invalides, and Champ de Mars, 
also Champs Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, and, to the left, the 
palace of the public Ministers and Admiralty, over the bridge is 
the Chamber of Deputies, and the Academy of Fine Arts ; further 
on is the Champ de Mars and the Military School, near which is 
the Hospital, Flotel des Invalides, with the tomb of Napoleon, 
the most splendid affair Europe ever beheld ; it is now finished, 
and bears the palm of all I have ever seen. Four black spiral 
marble columns support a frieze of marble, whilst 18 white marble 
figures of victory, 18 or 20 feet high, form a circle in front, below 
the base of the columns, which are seen 30 feet high, and stands 
in the centre of the church of the Invalides. We recross the 
bridges to the Champs Elysees, and visit the great Arc de Triomphe, 
erected by Napoleon ; on this promenade is the new Industrial Ex- 



13 

position building of France, opening in May, the Jardin d'Hiver, 
Jardin Mobile, and Jardin de Fleurs, all fashionable casinos and 
elegantly decorated; but nothing to compare with Surrey or 
Vauxhall, in London. The Elysee, which is the President's resi- 
dence, is near the Champs Elysees, (now Emperor.) What is in a 
name ? a rose by any other name would smell as sweet — the French 
republic never was anything but a military aristocracy — a people's 
rights betrayed and all content. 



THE GAKDENS OF ST. CLOUD. 

(PEONOTJNCED ST. CLOO.) 

On the banks of the Seine, the favorite residence of Napoleon ; 
here he signed the second capitulation of Paris. A most beautiful 
garden, with water-works and fountains, with hill and dale, about 
7 miles from Paris. The furniture of the palace is gorgeous in 
the extreme ; there is a fine set of Gobelin tapestry pictures from 
Eubens' finest works, so exquisite, you can scarcely detect they 
are not oil paintings, and are worth some $10,000 each — or cost 
it, — fine Sevres vases, statues, and what is more, the liberality of 
France throws it all open to the public (and no fees) — to anybody — 
particularly on Sundays, when the working classes^ have an op- 
portunity to visit such places. I observed more sobriety and good 
conduct among the French lower orders than I ever ^ did in 
America or England ! but like Esau, have sold their birthright for 
a mess of pottage, and the great masses of the people all over the 
continent neither appreciate nor are fit for self-go vernmet. The 
great fountain is 108 feet wide and of the same height, and the 
large jet 97 feet, From the windows of the Palace you have a 
full view of Paris ; rail-road, omnibus and steam-boat to Paris ; 
extent of grounds — 200 acres 



PALACE OF YEKSAILLES, 

12 miles from Paris. 

This great building contains, they say, six miles of pictures; 1 
do not doubt it. I walked from 12 to 3, I gave but a hurried 
glance at such glorious battle-pieces, sieges and works of art ; such 
ceilings, looking-glass rooms, rows of marble statues. There is 
but one Versailles, it has no rival, as a whole no equal ; 30,000 
men were employed upon it for 7 years in building and garden- 
ing : many of Horace Yernet's glorious pictures are here, the 
battle of Isly, 80 feet by 20 ; and hundreds of pictures, 10 and 
20 feet square. 

Such thousands on Sundays come out to rove through these 

2 



14 

wonderful gardens, 400 acres, with fountains ; it costs $1,000 each 
time the}* all play, generally on fete days ; there are 1000 trees in 
the orangery, some twenty feet high and 100 years old and worth 
on an average $100 each. — The view is 

THE GREAT FOUNTAIN OF NEPTUNE. 

The palace and gardens cost France so much that Louis XIY 
burnt the accounts to prevent its being found out. It was an ex- 
cellent place for him to entertain Madame Pompadour. 



We now leave France. — I have introduced 

A Landscape in Belgium, 

Residence of Mr. Grisard. 

Chaud Fontaine, near Liege ; the great iron works of Belgium. 
The generality of Belgium is flat, rich, and highly cultivated, but 
where it is hilly, it appears similar to the neighbourhood of 
Rouen and Paris. This view has a very general character of 
such scenery. 



ANTWERP. 

Imitation of a chime of hells on the Piano. 

Chief sea-port town of Belgium, on the river Scheld, twenty- 
four hours by steam-boat from London bridge, fare $5, yet com- 
paratively how few avail themselves of these facilities — owing to 
the difference of language, and the great nuisance of passports. 
French is the language in general use, but you will always find 
commissioners, or guides, who speak English. Hotel de Rubens, 
Place Verte, is cheap and good. The old Cathedral, with a taper 
Gothic spire 403 feet 7 inches high, towering above the antiquated 
buildings, is the prominent feature of the place. It is 500 feet long 
and 250 feet wide ; it was plundered by the Calvinists in 1566. How 
many centuries have passed, and it is the same in looks, the same in 
sound ; the melodious chimes of bells every half-hour, all day, all 
night, bring to the mind the reminiscences of past ages. In the 
choir a chapter of the Golden Fleece was held by Philip II. of 
Spain, at which nine kings and sovereign princes assisted. In 
this Cathedral is Rubens' great picture, the "Descent of the Cross" ; 
and the spire is a most exquisite specimen of rich open gothic, 
the delicate lace-like stone work is held together by iron bars 
nassing through their centre — it was built in 14-22. The many gor- 



15 

geous churches now left, attest the former wealth and greatness 
when it was the first commercial city of Europe. 

In the clays of Charles Y. 2,500 vessels were lying at the quays, 
freighted from all parts of the world ; its commerce and population 
have both dwindled clown from 200,000 to 75,000 inhabitants, a 
vast number of whom are of the poorest class ; Napoleon planned 
out extensive docks, which are now completed ; it is a walled 
city, an immense wall and ditch extending all around, and at the 
upper part is' the Citadel, where the French and Belgian troops 
(60,000 strong, 223 guns) besieged the Dutch, who had possession 
under Gen. Chasse, with 4,500 men and 145 pieces of cannon ; the 
trenches dug by the French to attack, measured nearly 9 miles, 
63,000 bombs, shot, &c, were fired into the citadel, and three 
months elapsed ere the fort surrendered — a complete ruin ! it has 
since been thoroughly repaired. 

But that which out-lives all the changes of commerce and gov- 
ernment, are the works of Peter Paul Pub ens — here was his 
home ; it is also the birth-place of Vandyke, Jorclans, Teniers, and 
Quentin Matsys. Go, stranger, and traverse her antiquated streets, 
rich in pictorial beauty — walk through the stately churches, gaze at 
the dazzling gorgeous altars, at the multitude of marble statues, at 
the rich carvings of wood and stone, hear the chanting choirs, and 
the ever-pealing chimes at Notre Dame ! — St. Paul's, St. Andrew's, 
St. Augustin's, St. Anthony's and Jesuit's where the wounded 
were carried from the field at Waterloo, — at St. Jacques, by rich- 
ly polished columns, amid cherubs, of marble, rich gildings and 
stained glass ! Everywhere — at every point, may be seen a glori- 
ous combination of the greatness of the past ! In this arch is the tomb 
of Rubens — that master-mind of art ! — the efforts of whose incom- 
parable pencil will survive the shrine that encloses him — it is the 
soul of art ! the mind feels it in every passage it flits across, as from 
a dream ! During the time of the French Revolution, when the 
altars were upset and the tombs broken open and rifled, Rubens 
alone was spared. Near the Cathedral stands the iron well of 
Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith, who for love forsook the forge 
for the palette, and became the companion of Vandyke, Rubens, 
&c. There is a fine picture of his, " The Misers," at Windsor 
Castle. 

The commerce of Antwerp was completely cut off by Holland, 
and its rivers closed by treaties ; now having succeeded in throw- 
ing off the yoke of Holland by the revolution of 1832, is gradual- 
ly recovering under a wise administration. The Belgian govern- 
ment acts on very liberal principles, and though far behind Ameri- 
ca or England, it is far in advance of the rest of Europe: the 
short-sighted policy of taxing books, placards, and advertisements, 
is here in full rigor, and whilst the United States has nineteen 
newspapers for each person, England has only one for every three 



16 

hundred, Belgium not half so many, Germany is well supplied 
such as they are. 

I was informed that the passport system had been abolished 
here, but it is not the case. I had hoped from the superior mind 
and intelligence I saw in Belgium, that they would have set the 
example to the rest of Europe by simplifying the passport sys- 
tem towards strangers, whose papers are duly signed by their 
ministers. 

The Interior of the Museum at Antwerp, 

OR, GREAT GALLERY OF PAINTING, IN THE SUPPRESSED CONVENT OF 

RECOLLETS. 

It contains Eubens, Yandyke, Teniers, and Jordans' finest pic- 
tures, and many others ; the small design of the " Descent of 
the Cross," by Rubens, and some pictures 40 feet high, all open 
and free to artists or students of any country to copy and study ; 
many of these pictures are from suppressed convents ; there is 
also a fine collection of statues for students. There is a similar 
institution at Brussels. 



We now take rail to 

BRUSSELS— Bruxelles. 

Time 2 hours. Fare 3 francs. Population 110,000. 

This is a clean, beautiful, and quiet city, worthy of the capi- 
tal of Belgium. Napoleon called it the city of palaces — it is 
Paris in miniature ; the houses are brick and covered with stucco, 
and painted white or cream color, in oil, as genteel and elegant 
as you can find in London or New York, and the architecture 
good. Great quantities of Belgian plate glass and beautiful flow- 
ers are in the windows, and also Brussels lace curtains ; this and 
New York being the only cities in which I have seen them in ge- 
neral use. The surrounding country is highly cultivated and 
fertile, with splendid botanical gardens, and the park though 
small, is one of the finest in Europe. On one side is the king's 
palace — on the other, the Houses of Representatives. There is a 
fine old square, with a Gothic Town Hall, built by the Spaniards 
1444. It is 3 miles out to the Palace of Laken, the king's country 
residence — Napoleon's favorite residence — a beautiful place. Rail- 
road to Paris 13 hours, fare $5 and $10. 

Everything in Brussels is a pattern of good order and govern- 
ment ! the troops are very fine : the royal family are universally 
beloved, and frequently walk, unattended, in the streets ; and 



17 

from all I observed of their condescension and courtesy, am con- 
vinced they are eminently deserving the unqualified respect which 
is universally shown to them — they reign, not by troops and po- 
lice, but by the esteem and affection of the people. There is a 
favorite excursion to the field of Waterloo, situated at a distance 
of twelve miles ; in the city the thunder of the artillery was dis- 
tinctly heard during that ever memorable battle. 

There is a splendid gallery or museum of painting in one of the 
old palaces. I must not omit this opportunity to speak of Mr. 
Clemson, the American Minister at this Court, as an artist of very 
superior attainments, and whose urbanity of manners has made 
him a great favorite of all classes. I had the pleasure of visiting 
a meeting of the artists of Brussels with him, and they gathered 
around him as an old familiar friend. 

There is among the modern improvements, a splendid arcade or 
passage, the finest in Europe, far superior to the Paris passages — 
rich in red Belgian marble ; splendid shops, thronged and fash- 
ionable, and doing good business. From Brussels 150 miles by 
rail to Cologne, fare $3, time 10 hours. 



THE RHINE, 

Which is connected with all European history, from the Romans 
to the present time ; the existence of Holland solely depends upon 
its not overflowing, and all the timber used for building in Hol- 
land is conveyed down this noble river. 

The Rhine is a much larger river than is generally supposed ; it 
rises from many sources among the Glaciers and lakes of the Alps 
and of Switzerland, and after traversing nine hundred miles dis- 
charges itself into the sea, where the alluvial soil it has brought 
down from the mountains, constitutes what is now Holland. 
From Kotterdam to Coblentz there is nothing worthy of remark 
to be seen on the Rhine, a distance exceeding 200 miles. There 
are only about 60 miles in extent of the Rhine which are pic- 
turesque and beautiful, and that includes all that is seen in the 
Yiews so often published, namely, from Cologne to Mayence. 
Just above Coblentz commence the Drachenfels mountains, where 
every hill is crowned with ruins of pepper-box castles — once the 
seat of robbers, lords, barons, and bishops, but as open plunder 
has gone out of fashion, these places are deserted and in ruins, ex- 
cept a few that they are beginning to reclaim for a country seat 
for prince somebody or other, or some wealthy gentleman. The 
scenery of the Rhine is very beautiful, but cannot be seen to 
much advantage from the deck of a steamer ; it is necessary to go 
on shore and explore the ruins in order to enjoy it. One feature 



18 

of the Rhine are the peculiar craft and sailing vessels. The 
southern side is noted for its sunny aspect. In its ever-winding 
course it is walled or turreted up every six or seven feet on the 
rocky sides to hold the earth, to raise grapes for the Rhenish sour 
hock wines ; the northern side being cold, is covered only with 
wild foliage, shrubbery and rocks. 

The views in the Panorama are COBLENTZ and the fortress 
EHREKBREITSTEIK— PFALZ CASTLE, the town of Caub, 
and the castle of Gutenfels. — BINGEN, where the Highlands 
finish with the castle of Rheinstein. 



Air (Piano Amico), "The last Rose of Summer." 



HAMBURG. 

One of the remaining four free towns, viz. Liibeck, Frankfort, 
Bremen, — 13 hours by rail from Cologne — 8 do. from Berlin, on 
the Elbe River, 75 miles from the sea, 2| days by steamer from 
London (when you have good weather). Population 160,000. 
The great fire of 1842 destroyed nearly half the town, all is now 
rebuilt, and in the finest style of modern architecture — the fire has 
in the end been a benefit, when you compare the enlarged streets, 
free circulation of air and splendid shops and hotels, to the antique 
portions that were saved. These improvements have been made 
by the aid of an immense national debt, and $2,000,000 were raised 
by voluntary subscriptions for the benefit of the sufferers ; of 
which England alone gave $205,000. 

The old ramparts, as in many of the continental cities, have 
been changed into beautiful walks, gardens and parks, as at Co- 
penhagen, Lubeck, and Frankfort. On the side of the city facing the 
Elbe lie the shipping, and on the opposite side is the great Alster 
Basin, a sheet of water nearly half a mile square, around which 
are the principal hotels, splendid shops and always thronged with 
fashionable equipages and company. The reflection of hundreds 
of lamps by night in this great basin has a very beautiful effect, 
as will be seen in the Panorama, when the view changes from day 
to night. It is a charming place in the summer season, the numer- 
ous pleasure boats with bands of music and gaiety upon the tran- 
quil waters of the Alster, and charming villas and country seats 
in the surrounding suburbs — and all the bustle and life of a flou- 
rishing commercial city. It is an independent government under 
the protection of the German confederation, and governed by 2 
Burgomasters and a Senate. There are several canals through 
the city — and a great rise and fall of tide. Adjoining Hamburg 



19 

is Altona, a Danish city of 30,000 inhabitants. The gates of 
Hamburg are closed at 4 oclock in winter, and to pass them you 
pay a toll, which increases every hour until midnight, when it 
amounts to near half a crown. The shipping do not come to the 
wharves, but are moored out in the river. There are some very 
picturesque dresses among the country people and flower girls — 
called Yierlanders. 

END OF THE FIRST SECTION OF PANORAMA. 



BERLIN, 

Capital of Prussia — Population 500,000, mostly Protestants. 

There is an immense number of troops and Casernes. Thou- 
sands drilling, marching, and countermarching from morning to 
night. They had better be digging potatoes and producing some- 
thing useful. All over the continent it is the same thing, the sol- 
diers are obliged to serve so many from each commune for 3 or 4 
years. The pay is about 2d. a day — and rather more kicks than 
halfpence. When I was in Prague, an Austrian city, the garri- 
son was 16,000, population 130,000 — how different from London 
where a police force without sabre or gun Is fi .lly sufficient for 
near 2 millions — and New York with 700,00 r , has not 700 regular 
soldiers. But where one country is armed to the teeth, the others 
must follow the example. 

Berlin is handsomely and regularly laid out — the Linden is the 
great centre avenue and fashionable promenade, and takes its 
name from the grove of Linden trees and walk through the cen- 
tre of it. Fredericks trass e, that crosses it, is two miles long from 
gate to gate. 

The Brandenburgh gate is very fine — surmounted by a trium- 
phal car and statues. The City and all around it is on a level 
plain, so that it is imperfectly drained, which makes it very bad 
in Summer — but now an English Company are building water- 
works, there will be a great improvement. The small river Spree 
runs through part of the City, and by canals communicates with 
the Baltic. Berlin holds a high position for its works of Art, 
Palaces, public buildings, and general intelligence; the great 
mass of the German people are the most intelligent and best 
educated in Europe — every mile you go south, the people are less 
educated. The suburbs of Berlin are very interesting. The Tea 
Gardens with Kroll's splendid establishment ; Kroll's great room 
is much finer than anything in Paris, or in England, — it is about 



100 by 200 feet, and a perfect model of decorative art for balls 
and concerts. It is three quarters of an hour by railway to 
Potsdam — the Versailles of Berlin — the summer residence of the 
Royal Family and favorite home of Frederick the Great. Here 
are several splendid palaces and the great gardens of Sans Souci, 
and many interesting reminiscences of Frederick ; it is as inter- 
esting and as well worth seeing as any sight in Europe — in fact 
no architect, sculptor or painter, after completing his studies at 
home, should commence business without making a tour of 
Europe and examining these places — one year so employed will 
place him ten years ahead in his profession. 

Our illustration is the Gendarmes' Market and Platz, with the 
two churches built by order of Frederick the Great, and the thea- 
tre between them, finished in 1819. All over the Continent the 
people go to church on Sunday morning, and to the theatre in the 
evening ; so the Berlin architect, to accommodate the public in 
that city, has placed the house of pleasure between the houses of 
prayer — so that the transfer from one to the" other may be facili- 
tated. The church in the foreground is invested with a melan- 
choly reminiscence. It was in its sacred aisles that the dead 
slain in the insurrection of 1846 were placed, covered with im- 
mortelles. Whether their cause was good or bad, they fell bravely 
in what they thought was freedom's cause ; and we, who in this 
country enjoy such solid yet rational liberty, can well afford to 
render to their memories the humble tribute of respect and sym- 
pathy. 



SECOND YIEW.— The Royal Library. 

The Royal Library, designed, it is said, by Frederick the 
Great, from a chest of drawers, very antique and pretty ; op- 
posite to it is the Opera- House, the handsomest in Europe — and 
in the centre is the University with splendid collections of Na- 
tural History and Anatomy — the Linden is the street in front of 
it, with the statute of Frederick the Great. 



Prussian March, and God preserve the Emperor. — Haydn. 



THIRD YIEW. — Statue of Frederick the Great. 

The Statue of Frederick the Great is 40 feet high — of bronze — 
said to be the finest public monument ever cast, designed by Pro- 
fessor Rauch of Berlin, one of the first sculptors of modern times; 
the view taken is, when the Emperor of Austria and King of 



21 

Prussia were passing in grand review, Dec. 2. 1852. The build- 
ng in front is the Palace of the Prince of Prussia. 



FOURTH VIEW.— The Linden. 

A bird's eye perspective ; in the fore-ground is the back of the 
statute of Frederick, on your right the Opera House, and the 
rreat Schloss or castle with a dome, in which is one of the most 
splendid chaj:>els ever built, and the apartments gorgeous in the 
extreme ; it is a second Windsor Castle. On the left is the 
irsenal, built by Frederick, and the New Museum, containing 
splendid collections of paintings, antique statues, Pompeii urns, 
j;ems, Egyptian relics ; the Museum is second only to the Louvre, 
n Paris. Munich, nor Vienna, have any one building to match 
t. 



The tourist is supposed to have arrived at Mayence in a 
steamer, and quitting the Rhine, takes the rail, 20 miles to 
FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE, and the seat of the German 
Confederation, with a garrison of Austrian, Prussian, Bavarian, and 
Frankfort troops ; here are beautiful villas, fashionable and ele- 
gant houses — perfect palaces ; the antiquated part of the city is 
)ccupied principally by Jews, and in this locality the Rothschilds 
vere born. In order to show the antique old houses of Germany, 
n contrast with the new of Berlin and Hamburg, I have selected 
:he house where Luther preached from the windows near the 
Dom, or Cathedral, where 16 Emperors of Germany have been 
crowned, and the seat of the German Diet. Frankfort is famous 
? or its fairs, sales of pipes, cutlery, and stag horn ornaments, like 
3ameos, all cheap and good — population, 62,000. We now take 
;lie rail, 40 miles to 

HEIDELBEEG CASTLE. 

(Two Vieivs, ivith the Hitter Hotel.) 

This is the finest ruin in Europe, all that the imagination could 
wish, subterraneous passages, with deep fosse, citadel, the draw- 
bridges, towers, &c, and it has fully accomplished the mission for 
which it was intended ; it- was pull devil ! pull baker ! ever 
since it was built. It has been five times bombarded, thrice 
taken by assault and delivered over to pillage, and all hands mas- 
sacred at last, and fortunately burnt by lightning, or, perhaps, 
they would have been peppering away at each other until the 
present day ; it is a glorious study for an artist, all of red sand- 
stone, and the statues and rich carvings are very perfect, and ivy 
growing over the high walls and towers ; it is of the Elizabethan 



22 

style of ornament, and rich in the extreme. Walls of the towers 
22 feet thick, yet were blown up by the French, and the great 
round tower, of which not half remains, was 230 feet high, half 
of which the French blew into the town. They have many 
years ago built a fine bridge and some houses with the blown-up 
portion. 

This feudal old Castle was renowned in its day, 
Its walls are emblazoned with statues and shields, 
The records of glory that has faded away. 
No guards now accost, its guests are departed, no more to return. 

Its portals are open, its gateways are free, 
Its knights and its nobles shall meet here no more, 
O'er its tall shatter'd towers the ivy its banner shall be. 
No guards now accost, its guests are departed, no more to return. 

What the havoc of battle could never achieve, 
In the fierce raging storm the lightning's blast fell'd it, 
The homage of triumph no more to receive, 
No guards now accost, its guests are departed, no more to return. 

There is a celebrated University here of law and medicine, 
about 700 students, and many celebrated professors ; but they 
have a disgraceful system of fighting duels, where the young cut- 
throats retire to a room and fight with knives across a table ; for 
those, who profess to assemble at an institution to acquire know- 
ledge, to lessen themselves below the level of the brute and seek 
the blood of their fellow-creatures in low broils, is contemptible, 
and a state prison should be their reward ! but Heidelberg is not 
alone, Stuttgart and Munich present the slashed faces and disfi- 
guring scars of these contemptible bravos. 

We now take the rail to Basle, in Switzerland, a long distance, 
but nothing interesting to see. Plenty of tobacco and Indian 
corn, or maize, may be seen growing. As you traverse the rail, 
you will be delighted in beholding several uncommonly beautiful 
railway stations, in imitation of what you anticipate the Swiss 
cottages are. 

Or, pleasanter route to go up the Neckar River in a steamer, 
passing ruins of castles by villages, to Heilbronn, and by rail to 
(Jim, to Augsburg and Munich, to Lake of Constance, and over the 
Splugen route to Italy. 



SWITZERLAND. 

Switzerland, thou mountain land, whose cragged peaks and 
pinnacles o'ertop the clouds! and there, amid the crystal glaciers 
and everlasting snows, the whirlwind dwells, and the fell ava- 
lanche leaps from the rocky side to plunge destruction on the 
plains below ; where gentle torrents swell, with summer storms, 
and turn to roaring floods that sweep, in their destructive course 



23 

iole villages in ruin, death and desolation, where mountains fall 
d crush ! but there is a sublimity, a grandeur in the scene, that 
s the mind with a holy inspiration of nature's majestic works, 
Lere the eagle wheels, undisturbed, around the mountain's brow 
where patriots drew their arrows to the head and struck right 
the tyrant's heart ! it is the land of Tell — it is the land of 
berty. 

Such is Switzerland, where Mont Blanc raises its giant front, 
lid eternal snows, and silvery lakes and valleys green form a 
ange of Summer, Spring, and Winter, all in one ! 



THE FALLS OF THE AAK AT HANDECK. 

\e commencement of the River Aar, that flows out of the Lake 

of Thun. 

Air. — Tyrolean— -from William Tell. 

THE CASTLE OF CHILLON, 

. Lake Leman — or Lake of Geneva. The lake was first made 
own to the civilized world by the conquests of 

Julius Caesak, 

i the castle is immortalised by the pen of Byron, and is situated 
the extremity of the lake, which is 50 miles long. The castle 
m the steamer looks very indifferent,, more like an old barn, 
I a feeling of disappointment is universal ; the mountains around 
ing to a great height, and often crowned with snow, are very 
ijestic. I returned with the steamer to Yevay, a charming vil- 
;-e, and a walk of 8 or 9 miles along the lake. The road, passing 
splendid villas, mansions, villages and vineyards, arrived at the 
s tie ; from the shore it is very fine, with antique round towers 
d draw bridge, and with the guide the wife of the Castellan, a 
py intelligent woman who speaks English ! went through the 
artments of the castle ; it is one of the most interesting places 
u could wish to see. You enter the court yard, and the dark 
rridor of Gothic arches, the prison of Bonivard, and in a dark 
me is a dark slanting rock almost polished with use, wmere 
>re than 2,000 Jews have been strangled, they being accused by 
air Christian brethren, of having poisoned the wells and springs, 
rjoining this is an old beam used for hanging prisoners, and 
posite a small window, where the bodies were thrown into the 
le ; the water is 800 feet deep immediately under it, and 1,200 



24 

in the centre. In another apartment is a niche, where the image 
of the Virgin stood ; the prisoner was told to kneel and pray, that 
he was pardoned, that was the way out ; a trap door opened with 
descending steps into darkness ; a few steps, and the next was 40 
feet of a fall and the victim left to die slowly with broken limbs 
and hunger ; sometimes they had compassion enough to give a 
quicker death, when the trap below that again opened some 12 
feet npon a bed of knives. All remains now, nearly as perfect 
as when in use, and could be used again to-morrow. The castle is 
now used as an arsenal for the Canton (with cannon and arms.) 
The building dates from the eighth century, and is more than 
1000 years old, and was generally crowded with state and political 
prisoners. The axe, block, and executioner have been busy, and 
every wall indicates a land-mark of tyranny ! and in proportion 
as nature became more beautiful and sublime, man appears to 
have been more socially, morally, and politically degraded ! It 
is true that Switzerland has thrown off the yoke of oppression, and 
has maintained her position for a long time, has much yet to ac- 
complish, and progresses very slowly. 

The finest and best of her sons have for ages formed the regi- 
ments and life guards of the kings of France, Naples, or anybody 
who would pay them, and you see the consequences of it ; the 
generality now are very ugly features, diminutive dwarfish men, 
cretins, idiots, and in the mountain districts the women are afflict- 
ed with goitres, an unsightly wen protruding from their throats to 
the extent of 6 or 8 inches, like a turkey's crop, have a very dis- 
gusting appearance ; it is said to be caused by a mineral quality 
.of the waters. The Swiss cottages, except close to their cities, 
are nearly all very miserable hovels. They will build a chalet 
upon the mountains, which is only fit for monkeys to dwell in, ri- 
diculous spots, as though all places in the world were occupied, 
and that was the last one left, and here cretins (idiots) numerously 
abound. In other parts of Europe I found the pension Swiss ho- 
tels the cheapest places to put up at, but in Switzerland the hotels 
are always very dear ; their excuse is : if travellers do not like it 
they should not come here, and they are in general very extortion- 
ate upon all strangers, especially English and American ; the 
money in one canton will not pass in another ten miles off, is" in 
batz, copper silvered over like the Prussian and Austrian zwanzi- 
gers. The money is now much improved on the model of the 
French. Geneva, where Calvin lived 23 years, and where he 
died, possesses nothing of interest ; it is a good place to buy gold 
watches and jewellery. Take the steamer and go to the other end 
of the lake and see Chillon and Villeneuve, return and take the 
diligence or stage at 7 in the morning, for Chamouni ; engage 
your place a day or two before hand, or you will find them all 
taken ; at Salenche you leave the stage and take a char a banc, a one 



25 

horse car with three seats. Look out for your passport as you 
pass the Savoy frontier, about 12 miles from Geneva ; if it is not 
signed by the Sardinian minister you must go back. A splendid 
wild drive up the mountains to Chamouni, get there about 8 in 
the evening, and take a good view of Mont Blanc, as you dine at 
Salenche, which you will find more beautiful, and it appears lar- 
ger than at Chamouni, though 12 miles distant. Mont Blanc at 
sunset from Geneva is also a splendid view. 



Lake, Castle and Town of Thun. 

In the distance are seen the Bernese Alps crowned with eternal 
snow, amongst those are the Jung Frau, the Wetterhorn, &c, and 
for twenty miles you see from the windows of the diligence these 
snow-capped mountains, under every aspect and change of light 
and shadow, one of the most pleasing sights in Switzerland, and 
this is the great fashionable route for all travellers upon the conti- 
nent ; from Berne by stage to Thun, and then the steamer up 
the Lake of Thun, in two hours to Interlachen, the resort of the 
fashionable world in summer. Crowded with gay company, and 
a 4 to 5 hours ride, and from there up the mountain passes, a 
splendid treat of sublime scenery, to Grindelwald. 



The Bernese Alps. 

This is the sort of scenery you will pass in your ride up the 
mountain from Interlachen to Grindelwald, and the same moun- 
tains you saw in the distance in the Lake of Thun. 



The Peak of the Jung Fran, or Yonng Wife, 

IS ,000 feet high. 

VIA MALA. 

This is perhaps the most romantic of all the Alpine passes — 
a narrow gorge, the rocks rising thousands of feet on each side and 
threads of waterfalls rushing down in all directions. The elec- 
tric telegraph is carried through the pass to the Splogen village, 
and the roar of the rushing waters through the ravine, where it has 
worn a channel deep in the solid rock, often concealed from the 
sight hundreds of feet below. You leave the town of Chur at 5 

3 



26 

in the morning, pass through the Via Mala at 10, for about 
2 hours, dine at 1 at the Splugen village, and at 3 arrive at the 
Splugen pass ; I crossed May 20th, left the diligence and for 2 
hours in a sleigh, with the snow from 4 to 30 feet deep, and gene- 
rally on the side of a precipice, with snow, rain and wind, all the 
passengers were wet through ; you are not allowed to carry umbrel- 
las ; the cold is intense, there is a covered gallery on the very top 
of the pass, (a slight protection from the daily fall of avalanches,) 
through which horses and passengers pass. A short distance on the 
descent, amid all this snow and desolation, is the Austrian custom 
house and frontier, where half frozen and without fires, your trunks 
are opened and ransacked, your private letters read, your passports 
examined with all the scrupulous exactness of those jacks in office, 
who expect to get a red ribbon in their button-hole and be pro- 
moted by catching John Smith Mazzini, Esq. You now return to 
the diligence, and in 2 hours descent arrive at Chiavenni in Italy, 
amid roses and flowers, and in the morning at 8 leave for the Lake 
of Como, arrive at 11, and by steamer and rail arrive in Milan by 
6 in the evening — the quickest and wildest of the alpine passes 
from the Lake of Constance, but should never be attempted with 
ladies sooner than 15th of June, on account of snow and cold ; if 
you wish to see Italy in winter or spring, always go by Paris, 
Lyons and Marseilles. I have crossed Mont Cenis, the Simplon 
and the Splugen, and they are all bad in winter and spring. It 
was by the Splugen Gen. MacDonald retreated with the French 
army, in the month of January, and every few minutes the ava- 
lanches rolled down, sweeping great numbers into eternity. This 
is one of the routes selected for a railway over the Alps ! ! 

The idea has a grim grandeur about it, although those practical 
lights of the age, engineers and surveyors, look upon it with busi- 
ness-like fortitude. They say it can be done, and the public re- 
joice, because such a line of railway would complete several most 
important links in the great chain of European communication. 
Our illustration shows the line of route of the electric telegraph 
through the Yia Mala (Broken Path), a ravine inSwitzerland. 

" Great was the tumult there, 
Deafening the din, when in barbaric pomp 
The Carthaginian on his march to Rome 
Entered their fastnesses. Trampling the snows, 
The war-horse reared ; and the towered elephant 
Upturned his trunk into the murky sky, 
Then tumbled headlong, swallowed up and lost, 
He and his rider. 

Now the scene is changed ; 
And o'er the Simplon, o'er the Splugen winds 
A path of pleasure. Like a silver zone 
Flung about carelessly, it shines afar, 
Catching the eye in many a broken link, 
In many a turn and traverse as it glides; 
And oft above and oft below appears, 



27 

Seen o'er the wall by him who journeys up, 

As if it were another, through the wild 

Leading along he knows not whence or whither. 

Yet through its fairy course, go where it will, 

The torrent stops it not ; the rugged rock 

Opens and lets it in ; and on it runs, 

Winning its easy way from clime to clime, 

Through glens locked up before." Rogeus's Italy. 



Glacier and Vallay of Grindeiwald. 

This is about 4,000 feet above the level, and greatly frequented 
in the summer season. They are building many chalets, hotels 
and accommodations for travellers, and it is fast improving ; the 
potato, that down in the valley at Interlachen was struck down bv 
disease and only a black leafless vine, was up in these high regions 
3 feet high blooming and green, and I have never seen as fine ; 
it struck my attention most forcibly as everywhere below, through 
France and Switzerland, the potato was destroyed by rot, but in 
the pure air of these regions it was in its highest perfection. You 
can form no idea of the bracing health in these high regions during 
the sultry months of summer, and they are moderate in their 
charges, and average 100 visitors a day in the season. 



Swiss Horn Solo. — From William Tell. Piano Amico. 

Alpine Sunset, 

Showing the rosy tints on the distant mountains. The Wetter- 
horn and the Wellhorn. 



MONT BLANC, 

From the Priory of Chamouni. 

Mont Blanc is 15,766 feet in height, covered with eternal snow, 
and is amongst the highest mountains of the world ; yet from the 
overwrought accounts of it the tourist is much disappointed. It is 
not in appearance one half what it is in reality. You have been 
gradually approaching Chamouni until within 12,000 feet of the 
summit, without perceiving that you have been ascending an im- 
mense mountain, and nature being viewed on such a magnificent 
scale the eye is lost to its exact proportions. From Chain ouni to 
the summit is about 9 miles in a direct line, but owing to the fright- 



28 

ful Glaciers and endless circuits that the traveller has to encounter, 
the distance is a little less than 50 miles. Seven guides are re- 
quired, at a cost of $125, in order to reach the summit, and they 
are all connected together with a rope to prevent falling down 
some of the crevices of the ice. I undertook to walk to one of the 
Glaciers before breakfast, (as it was not ready,) thinking it about 
seven or eight hundred yards off, but after walking half-an-hour I 
discovered that it was apparently as far off as ever ; so I returned. 
I afterwards went in two hours ; it was three miles. Vesuvius 
appeared to me higher at first, which is only five thousand feet ; 
and only those who have crossed the snowy summits of the Alps 
can appreciate the fatigue, toil and dangers of an ascent. 



MEE BE GLACE, 

OR, SEA OF ICE. 

This is the great curiosity of Mont Blanc ; ascending to Monta- 
vert from Chamouni, this great Glacier lies before you — a vast sea 
of ice. In traversing this dangerous place you will find large fis- 
sures, into which there is great danger of falling and of great 
depth ; they always take the precaution of ropes tied to one ano- 
ther. Amid the Glaciers and snows, is a small green spot, with 
flowers and grass, called the Jardin, and around you rise the tall 
granite spires, called the Aiguilles, or needles, 7,000 feet high, 
aiguille rouge, aiguille verte, aiguille drue ; these immense masses 
of ice have progressive motion, as they melt off in the valley, the 
weight above presses down, and they move on about 500 feet an- 
nually. At the foot of the Glaciers are great piles of stones 
and rocks, that they bring down from the mountains, and as the 
ice thaws the stones fall to the foot of the Glacier, where they 
form as it were a mound of stones. There is an immense arch of 
ice and an ice cavern at the foot of the Glacier, the source of the 
River Arve, and the Glacier finishes in the valley of Chamouni — 
precisely the same as at Grindelwald. 



ASCENT OP MONT BLANC, 



Crossing the Glacier Tacouni, the spot where Doctor Hamel of 
St. Petersburg lost 3 of his guides. 



NAPOLEON PASSING MOUNT ST. BERNARD, 

with 60,000 men. 



29 



Jtfapoleon's Grand March, and Military March. By H. Herz. 
Storm— Alpine Scenery, 

After the manner of Calame, the celebrated European Artist of 



Swiss Scenery. 



Isola Bella. 

Lago Maggioee. — After crossing the Alps, by the Simplon road, 
and coming into Italy at Duomo d'Ossola, yon arrive the next 
morning at Baveno, on the lake, and by taking a boat you cross 
over to the beautiful island. It belongs to the Borromean family ; 
at a distance it looks very indifferent, but on a near approach it be- 
comes very pleasing ; once a bare rock, but converted by immense 
labor to a terraced isle. There is a splendid chateau here where 
Napoleon dined the day previous to the battle of Marengo, and 
carved the word " battaglia" on a tree, which is still visible. The 
chateau, with antique furniture, gallery of paintings, &c, is 
almost a second St. Cloud. The Count Borromeo kindly permits 
visitors to see the buildings and garden — it is an earthly paradise. 
The view from the windows is exquisitely beautiful, and the base- 
ment story of the chateau is a series of grottos, of mosaic shells 
and statues, and there are trees in the garden from all parts of the 
world. The orange and the lemon trees, and the camphor tree 
near the great fountain, and a profusion of flowers, impart a most 
delightful fragrance to the place. At the landing there is a dirty 
village, consisting of a chapel and 10 or 12 houses, which are oc- 
cupied by boatmen. Lago Maggiore is very beautiful, at the end 
of which is the town of Sesto Calende, where you come under the 
Austrian rule, and leaving the steamer you take the diligence to 
Milan — 36 miles. But much pleasanter to cross over by Lugano 
and to Lake of Como and from Como to Milan by rail. 



Lake of Lugano. 

Within the vicinity of Milan are all the finest lakes of Italy, 
Como, Maggiore, and Lugano. You can leave Como at 7 in the 
morning in a carriage, arrive at Lugano at 10 ; breakfast, and 
leave at 12, at 2 arrive on Lago Maggiore ; so that all these beauti- 
ful places can be seen in one day. This is the route of the St. 
Gothard pass by Belzonia to Lucerne. 

The scenery is very beautiful. Lugano, one of the most pic- 

3* 



30 



turesque places in Europe, is a part of Switzerland. Oomo and 
part of Maggiore is Austrian. 



MILAN. 

Chorale {Meyerbeer) from the Huguenots : " Stabat Mater," 

Music, &c. 

Population 148,000. The Cathedral, or Duomo, is the lion of 
Milan ; it is built of marble, the front and spires are of dazzling 
whiteness, but the sides are black and dirty ; the original church 
was consumed in the year 1386 ; the present magnificent building 
contains a great number of spires with statues to the very top — 
4,000 in number. Still, with all the overwhelming accounts of 
this eighth wonder of the world, I was very much disappointed. 
The immense labor, carvings, statues and marbles are almost in- 
credible ; but the effect as a whole, is bad — mechanical labor can- 
not compensate for greatness of design. The church front is like 
the letter a, it wants towers on each side, and looks much smaller 
than it really is. The figure on the highest spire is 380 feet from 
the pavement, length 493 feet and width 177 feet. Height of the 
nave 152 feet, width of the nave 52 feet ; the impression is a vast 
nothing, and the interior gloomy and unpicturesque. The splen- 
dor of the church can only be appreciated by ascending to the 
roof of it, when you are as it were in a forest of marble pinnacles 
and statues — some of them by Canova — and the panorama of the 
city with the snowy Alps at a distance. The great theatre, La 
Scala, the largest opera house in Italy, is built upon the site of an 
ancient church of that name ; it is one of the finest and largest in 
Europe. Milan is a clean orderly city, the streets are better 
paved than any I ever saw, a double line of stone is laid as a rail- 
way, for the carriages and carts to run upon — no noise — no jolting. 
There are a few Roman remains, and a grand marble arch, com- 
menced by Napoleon, for the completion of the Simplon road. 
Leonardi da Yinci is the great old master of Milan, whose great 
fresco of the " Last Supper," is on the wall of the refectory of an 
old convent. I heard an Austrian military band playing in a 
square of the Cathedral, about eighty of them the best looking 
men and musicians I ever beheld. You can hire a country 
seat on the lakes Como, Maggiore, or Guardo, furnished, for about 
$100 a year ; it is one of the cheapest places to live in. You will 
see, in the wine season, both here and all over Italy, the men 
jumping about in a tub, with their bare feet, mashing the grapes ; 
the juice running out at a hole in the side looks like dirty ditch 
water, but when it has fermented you have the rich wines of 
Italy. To Yenice, 110 miles, about 70 miles by rail, viz. from Ye- 



31 

rona to Venice. There are many canals throughout the Lombard 
states, and many miles of poplar trees in straight lines, and the 
grape vines running from tree to tree in beautiful festoons, and 
purple with fruits, as if for a grand festival. Poverty and misery 
abound even in this garden of the earth. Paper windows for 
glass — too much humbugging and too little work — a crushed, op- 
pressed, and ignorant population ! Before a nation can be free, it 
must be fit for freedom. 



VENICE. 

The Carnival. 

Population 100,000. Railway from Verona (the home of Bo- 
rneo and Juliet) to Venice. The long Railway Bridge is a very 
fine structure, and crosses the Lagoon, whose waters are not above 
two or three feet deep, and the bridge nearly 3 miles long. Here 
is seen respectable poverty, but no business ; there are plenty of 
people in the churches every day praying ; and as to pretty wo- 
men, you will see more in London in half a day than you will see 
here in six mouths. I am not partial to tawny colors. It is a glo- 
rious sight to look upon those old palaces, where Othello dwelt — 
where Jaffier and Pierre conspired, and where Shy lock wanted 
the pound of flesh. You see them all in imagination, especially 
if you go over to the custom-house and drink plenty of Cyprus 
wine at the free port. The cuttle fish, or polypo, is very fine eat- 
ing, but curious to look at. I met many Americans here, among 
whom, Mr. Wallace of Philadelphia, who had just purchased from 
Beppo's wife, Lord Byron's crest and coat of arms, taken from his 
Lordship's gondola. 

Route from Venice to Florence, about 160 miles, by way of 
Padua, Ferrara, and Bologna, over the highest part of the Apen- 
nine mountains, a splendid stage ride of wild scenery. 



Grand Topographical View of Venice. 



VENICE. 



Like Venus — from the sea she rose upon foundations that have 
stood unscathed by wind and wave for centuries ; her long lines 
of dwellings, of stately palaces and churches, whose architectural 
richness, by Palladio's skill, have served as models to an admiring 
world ; and the painter's art, on her vast walls — ''twas Titian and 



32 

Tintoretto's hands, the gorgeous gilded ceilings, carved with 
boldest skill, and polished floors, that would be marble from their 
hardness and their variegated beauty, and yet are not. A city, 
once the soul of gaiety and the seat of commerce — both are gone! 
The gondolier and his black barge seems of their ancient customs 
all that is left, and he sings not as of yore, but silent and still as 
the caual through which he swiftly urges on his course. There is a 
solemn grandeur in the scene — a melancholy softness, no rattling 
sound, no busy hum is heard; horses there never were in Venice, 
save the bronze horses of St. Marc : many never saw a horse but 
those. It is a city, unlike all others, whose history has been a 
scene of rude broils and fierce contention' — dark, bloody deeds ; 
the prisons adjoin their palaces, where tyrants could give the 
word and slaves could execute — a Council of Ten — the tribunal 
of the infernal inquisition — the rack and torture! Such was the 
Republic of Venice — the democracy of the fifteenth century. O, 
Liberty ! how hast thou been abused — how been betrayed by this 
winged lion of St. Marc. 



FLOBEFCE, 

UNDER THE GRAND DUKE OF TUSCANY. 

Florence the fair lies in a deep vale encircled by the Apen- 
nines, from whose barren summits Galileo, the astronomer, dis- 
covered the motion of the earth ; whilst the rich valley spreads 
its green mantle with the clustering vine and olive, and countless 
groves and villas, amidst which the silver stream — the gentle 
Arno — winds its glittering course ; and the city, rising from the 
plain, with its walls, towers, spires, and bridges, appears more 
than beautiful. The huge dome of the Cathedral, second only to 
St. Peter's, the Belvidere or Bobboli Gardens, the Pitti Palace of 
the Grand Duke, with the choicest pictures of Titian, Raphael, 
and Guido. The Medici gallery of statues and pictures, with 
groups of students from all. countries, copying its thousands of old 
masters, or fashionable visitors gazing on the world's renowned 
Venus de Medici, or the antique bronzes; each object around 
seems to fill the mind with a love of art, a veneration over pounds 
and shillings for human intellect and skill. In the public squares 
are rich fountains and statues, some by the hand of Michael An- 
gelo, for this is his native city ; and he lies here buried in the 
church of Santa Cruz, side by side with Galileo, Alfieri, and many 
learned men and poets. Michael Angelo was born on the same 
day and hour that Galileo died. In this genial clime, the invalid 
seeks a refuge from the blasts of Northern Europe. The Tuscan 
straw-bonnet is as famous as the Tuscan order of architecture. 
The Grand Duke is but a Tuscan straw without the Austrian 



33 

bayonets. Mr. Hiram Powers, an American sculptor of great 
repute, resides here, (the " Greek Slave," in the Crystal Palace, 
is by him.) ^ I met some six or seven American and English 
artists studying here. 

The river Arno rises in the Apennines, passes by Florence 
and Pisa, with its leaning tower, and empties itself into the Medi- 
terranean, near Livorna or Leghorn. There is a railway between 
the two cities. Leghorn is a fine place, but not for a picture ; 
here are tall, fine houses, plenty of shipping, Turks, Jews, Aus- 
trian soldiers, and sore eyes. "I was nearly blind for a month by 
this ophthalmic attack, which comes on suddenly, and feels like 
an insect in the eye. Wear green spectacles in time, or the plea- 
sure of your journey will be lost. 



Florence completes the Second Section of the Panorama, 
and tour supposed departure in a steamer from leghorn to 
Rome — twenty hours. 



CIVITA VECCHIA. 

On arriving at the town of Civita Vecchia, from Leghorn or 
Livorna, in the States of the Church of Rome, and under French 
rule, you find yourself inside an artificial harbor, with a mole 
extending around, for there are no harbors upon this long line of 
exposed sea-coast, except one or two artificial ones. This is the 
sea-port of Rome, forty miles distant ; the harbor was built by 
Hadrian ; the walls and the town, with its towers and warm, light- 
colored stone-work, look most picturesque and cheerful to the sea- 
sick tourists on the steamer, who, secure in the smooth waters of 
the harbor, look back at the narrow entrance, and at the large 
blue waves of the Mediterranean dashing against the walls, and 
throwing their white spray completely over them, and which they 
were lately buffeting. An hour's delay, and the permission comes 
from the police for you to land ; yourself and trunks are carried 
on shore in small boats, and taken to the custom-house, which is 
near the diligence-office ; your passports must now go to the police 
to be vised, and a seal is put on your luggage, which is cut off 
for sixpence as you enter the gates of Rome. If you arrive by 
ten in the morning, you may succeed in getting off for Rome by 
seven in the evening — and bidding adieu to many charges and 
extortions, and to crowds of French troops. About twelve at 
night you arrive at the half-way house, and stop an hour to change 
horses, or rather to rest them ; this is as romantic and cut-throat 
looking a hotel as you could possibly see ; and, after a tedious all- 
night in the diligence or vetturi?ii, while passing through a wild 
and uninteresting campagna, you reach Rome about six or seven 



34 

in the morning. I came by post on a second visit, June, 1853, 
very little quicker, and by neglect of the American Consul not 
being there to sign passports, I had to come by night, being the 
only passenger ; there was a conductor and a gendarme, who 
coolly capped his pistols, arranged his musket and sword, as if he 
expected more company, but we were not molested. If you have 
plenty of money, you can travel by land from Florence in three 
days, or you may come by land from Naples ; but there is no 
small danger of brigands in these States of the Church, but you 
will get copious directions how to act if attacked, such as stepping 
out of the diligence when ordered, throwing yourself on the 
ground, and thrusting your watch and purse into the mud to hide 
them. The robbers generally attack in bands of fifteen or twenty, 
and shoot the front horses — cut the harness, and if you resist, 
will dirk or shoot you, sans eeremonie ! The masters of the inns 
on the route are generally the captains of these robbers. There- 
fore, you will find the diligence, with plenty of French troops, 
the safest. 



COMMENCEMENT OF THE THIRD SECTION. 



ROME; 



THE ETEENAL CITY. 

Rome is, you will find, the most picturesque city in all your 
route ; and, as you proceed southwards, the beauties of nature 
appear to increase. It is not an expensive place to live in, pro- 
visions are very cheap and plentiful, and, for a winter residence, 
far preferable to Florence. The surrounding country is full of 
beauty — to Frascata, to Tivoli, and Alboni ; the campagna or 
level country around, with long lines of aqueducts, groups of 
savage cattle, and more savage shejDherds. I met some friends in 
Rome, who were artists, and in the habit of sketching on the 
campagna ; they were often attacked by the cattle, but the shep- 
herds would not call off their dogs, unless they saw that you had 
a gun with you. To fill up the back ground of this scene are the 
Apennine mountains, often crowned with snow, and beautifully 
marked. Rome is surrounded by a vast wall about fifty feet high, 
with towers at short dislances. I saw, amongst the rough stone- 
work of these walls, small pieces of marble with beautiful mould- 
ing, or a leaf, showing in this small way how many a temple has 
been destroyed, how many times rebuilt. "What one century 



35 

achieved another destroyed. Gibbon computes its utmost popu- 
lation at one million two hundred thousand, when in its most 
flourishing state. Vast numbers of statues have been ground to 
dust, and burned for lime. Pliny states that there were in his 
time 70,000 statues in Rome. When you view the remains of the 
Colisseum, the Temple of Peace, and the Capitol, the arch of 
Constantine and Titus — the wonder is that so much is left after 
repeated sacking, by fire and sword. There are several modern 
palaces in Rome — the Doria Colona, and Corsini in particular — 
free to visitors ; and every man of taste is deeply indebted to 
those noble proprietors, who throw open their doors to the stranger 
to visit their splendid and noble collection of paintings by Guido, 
Titian, Carracci, Raphael, Vandyke, &c. It is one of the grandest 
traits of Rome. In passing the Piazzi Colonna is seen the column 
Antonius — the same Marc Antony we read of in our school-boy 
days. You see the same fountains playing to-day that have played 
for centuries. The Pantheon is one of the most perfect buildings 
in Rome ; built eighty-three years before the Christian era ; walls 
twenty feet thick, (only think of our New- York nine-inch walls ;) 
the diameter of the rotunda is one hundred and fifty feet, and the 
same in height, and sixteen Corinthian pillars in front, five feet in 
diameter, and forty-five feet high, and each a single stone. Michael 
Angelo, on examining the great dome and building of the Pan- 
theon, exclaimed : I shall surpass the ancients by placing a build- 
ing as large as this on the top of St. Peter's ! and such is the 
dome and cupola of St. Peter's ! 

The Papal Palace is an immense building, formed on the re- 
mains of the baths of Dioclesian, full of all pomp and regal state, 
and facing Monte Cavallo, with the statues of the horses, by Phi- 
dias, a copy of which is in the entrance to the Champs Elysees, 
Paris. Then the Church of St. John de Lateran, a truly splendid 
building, second only to St. Peter's ; in the interior are the Twelve 
Apostles, most beautifully carved in white marble, eighteen or 
twenty feet high, each - figure — opposite to it is the Scala Santa, 
or holy stairs, from Jerusalem. An Englishman or an American 
can form no idea of the costly marble columns and wealth of 
these churches, which have swallowed up a nation's resources, in 
their own aggrandizement, and reduced all to poverty around 
them. The friars' chant is but the echo of the beggars' moan — 
it is beg and scratch, pray and steal ; and as you journey by land, 
at every fresh relay of horses is a fresh relay of beggars, and such 
ill-looking objects, you can hardly believe God made man after 
his own image. Rome is situated on seven hills, in the midst of a 
pestilential plain, the Campagna — the malaria that rises in summer 
is fatal to man — shepherds and all desert it and go to the mountains. 
Even the country villas, within the walls of Rome, are infected with 
disease. I inquired at the door of an hospital, of a French soldier, 
"Co7nUeii sont malades ?" "Huit cent," he replied. Eight hun- 



36 

dred sick French soldiers in this one hospital — so much for being 
on guard all night in summer and September dews — so much for 
crushing liberty ! I must go with the crowd. What splendid 
Lord-Mayors' coaches are those, with stunning Johnnys for foot- 
men, in blue, red, and yellow livery and lace? Why, those are 
the cardinals' carriages — it is a great fete to-day in the Vatican. 
They are going to make fourteen new cardinals, one of them an 
Englishman. I went to the Church of St. Peter's to see the 
sights. The exterior of this great edifice is a sore disappointment. 
There is not one line of beauty — one redeeming feature — it is to 
me wretched. St. Paul's, in London, is beautiful. As an Ameri- 
can, I may say so, without being accused of prejudice. But when 
you enter the porch, you will behold a most beautiful statue on 
horseback, with \X\q colored marble cut into drapery ; then you 
enter this great temple, the most capacious in the world ! but the 
size again disappoints you, it does not appear to be half the mag- 
nitude it really is — a great defect, to build for majesty, and look 
but common-place. Better have saved the expense, and built it 
half the size. Height from pavement to top of the cross, 424 
feet ; portico, 439 wide ; altar, 86 feet high ; church, 575 feet 
long. 

The points that destroy it are — it is too wide for its height in 
the aisles, and the marble cupids are 6 feet high, and the figures, 
18 or 22 in the ceilings, etc., but it is only after you are aware 
of the actual measure and immense size that you can realize this 
vast temple. There are splendid tombs and statues by Canova — 
mosaic pictures, copies of Raphael, "The Transfiguration," etc., 
almost equal to oil. Imperishable mosaics, 18 or 20 feet square, 
and such mosaics as only the artists of the Vatican can produce 
under the patronage of the Government ; they are worth, or cost, 
thousands of pounds. In front of St. Peter's is the colonnade with 
284 columns and 192 statues, 11 feet high, an obelisk and two 
fountains ; also the entrance to the Vatican, with the Pope's 
guard, dressed up like a genteel Punch,- with long halberts. I 
managed to pass the guard and went up among a crowd and saw 
lines of soldiers in green, muskets and rifles in plenty ; a long 
procession of lacqueys, priests and cardinals, who were going on 
with the ceremony. I could proceed no further, therefore return- 
ed, and walked through the other parts of the Vatican, an immense 
museum — founded by the different popes — containing hundreds 
of statues found in the ruins of Rome, from the baths of Caracalla, 
from Hadrian's villa, etc. 

Then, for the first time, I conjectured what ancient Rome must 
have been — the statues seem to be superhuman in art ! The vast 
stone basins of porphyry, some twenty-two feet across, and polished 
as a looking-glass — cut from a single stone ! The red porphyry 
tombs and sarcophagus of the emperors — vast numbers of statues, 
vases and inscriptions, and the Vatican has no rival in the world. 



37 

The paintings by Raphael are most beautiful, and considered 
unrivalled ! — particularly "The Transfiguration," "Nativity," and 
" Presentation." (I like Rubens' better.) The frescos and car- 
toons on the walls are by Raphael. It is a day's work to look 
through the Yatican — justly the wonder and admiration of the 
world ! It is 1,151 feet in length, 767 feet in breadth, and con- 
tains 4522 apartments. 

From the fountain of St. Pauvoli you have the view of Rome at 
your feet, a more than recompense for all your journey — a scene 
never to be forgotten. Population, 150,000 — decreasing. 

I mentioned to a French officer on duty, on my return from 
Rome to Civita Yecchia, that they made fourteen new cardinals 
last week in Rome. He replied : " Ah pauvre France ! pauvre 
France !" Let us not forget the splendid statuary of the Capitol ; 
the " Yenus of the Capitol ;" " The Dying Gladiator ;" " Bacchus;" 
and " Faun." It is, indeed, a paradise of art and artists. 

The Forum of Trajan and the Trajan column — the column en- 
tire. The Forum is covered with polished granite columns, 4 to 5 
feet in diameter, broken into fragments, perhaps by earthquakes. 

There are twelve obelisks in Rome. That of St. Peter's, 126 
feet high, top of it eight feet square ; it came from Alexandria, 
and lay on the ground some time before they found mechanical 
means to raise it, on account of its immense weight! at last, an 
architect was found who undertook it, and, by thousands of men, 
hundreds of horses, and capstans, succeeded in raising it ; in doing 
which, the ropes stretched so much that the blocks met when near 
its height, and all the immense labor and expense seemed lost ! 
and the Pope's order was, " Eo one should speak on pain of death." 
At this critical moment, when the obelisk was within a few feet 
of its required height, an English sailor in the vast crowd exclaim- 
ed : " Wet the ropes !" It was done, their contraction shortened 
them, the obelisk was raised, the man pardoned and rewarded. 

St. Peter's is built on the spot where Nero's circus stood, and 
where the massacre of the Christians took place, as related by 
Tacitus ; and St. Peter soon after having suffered martyrdom, his 
disciple Mark conveyed his body to this spot. In the year 326, 
Constantine laid the foundation of this church, and after many 
alterations, finished by Michael Angelo ; it took three hundred 
and fifty years to complete it, and without statues, gilding, or 
mosaics, it cost in 1693 upwards of fifty millions of dollars, or ten 
million sterling ; and to rebuild it in the present age, would cost 
one hundred million pounds, or five hundred million dollars. 
Rome was founded 750 years before the birth of Christ. The 
new church of St. Paul almost rivals St. Peter's, and is just com- 
pleted ; it is situated on the Campagna, three miles from the gate 
of St. Paul, and where St. Paul was beheaded. 



38 



EOME. 



This is Rome — the queen of cities — the metropolis of the world ! I have heard of 
it in my boyish days, and longed to gaze upon its marble walls; there is not one stone 
that is laid upon another that 's not cemented with a Thracian's blood. 

Forrest — as Spartacus. 

Ay, its temples have been embellished with the spoils and tro- 
phies, and its columns reared by the toils of subjugated nations. 
And as the light of the morning sun goes forth, so from Rome 
went forth the light of science, art and civilization, amid the sav- 
age and conquered nations of Europe. Then came the reacting 
shock, the same barbarous hordes — Yandal and Goth, rushing 
back like a mighty wave, and o'erwhelming this great centre, and 
laying prostrate in the dust, a wreck of Roman greatness ! The 
shattered arch and broken column attest, that war, pestilence, fire 
and 'the earthquake, have left but enough to prove how glorious 
in her day was this proud mistress of the world ; and pilgrims 
from every clime now come to worship, and to wonder at her 
shrine of ruined and architectural greatness ! The vine grows 
o'er the ruined frieze, the moss gathers round the fallen and the 
fluted shaft, and those vast arches of brick, once cased in polished 
marble, rich in imperial purple, and the voluptuous bath, and 
echoing with the oratory of Caesar, Brutus, and Marc Anthony, 
are now desolate — vast mounds of rubbish ! the den of serpents 
but mark the sight of temples, whilst in their dust lie buried frag- 
ments of those wondrous antique statues, the " Yenus," the 
" Apollo," or the " Laocoon ;" on their sides grow the rank weeds, 
and gamble the goatherds, and in their shade sluggards the de- 
generate Italian. Man — God's own image — a greater wreck and 
more fallen than the tottering fabrics around him. 



THE FALLS OF TIYOLI. 

The scenery around Rome is very beautiful, and at a distance 
of 18 miles, among the Apennine mountains, are the celebrated 
falls of Tivoli, with the ruins of the temple of Yesta, with ten 
Corinthian columns (formerly eighteen,) eighteen feet high. The 
temple of the Sybil has four Ionic pilasters, and is now used as 
a church. These waters were once conveyed to Rome by an 
aqueduct, which, with its windings, was forty miles ; near to it is 
the Yilla Adrian, with beautiful ruins. There are 5 or 6 grand 
falls around Tivoli and the Yilla of Macenses and the Cascatelles. 
The inhabitants of Tivoli are famous for assassination ; a more 
picturesque brigand looking set of ruffians I never saw, both 
men and women ; but there is very little choice all over southern 
Italy. 



39 



THE FALLS OF TERNI, 

So beautifully described by Byron, are between five and six 
hundred feet high, and fall again 200 feet before they reach the 
level ; an artificial fall cut to draw off the waters of the river 
Narr. Tivoli is also artificial, which are considered the two most 
picturesque waterfalls in Europe. Here is plenty of ice in winter, 
although generally supposed a warm climate. 



THE ISLAND OF ISCHIA, 

FROM STANEIELD's CELEBRATED PICTURE. 

This is one of the entrances to the bay of Naples, opposite 
Procida, both of volcanic origin. There is an extinguished crater 
on the island, and the castle is upon a rock connected with it by a 
narrow pass, or bridge, and is very ancient. There is also, a state 
prison on the rock, which is almost impregnable, now used for 
political prisoners. 

NAPLES. 

Air, Barcarole and Market Chorus. — From Massaniello. 

Commenced 1300 years before the Christian era, and was 
besieged by Hannibal but not taken ; it was again besieged by 
Belisarius the Roman, and by means of subterranean passages 
which still exist, it was taken and pillaged. This city has belonged 
to France and to Spain. In the year 1647 was the revolt of 
Massaniello, the fisherman, and in 1806 Napoleon took it and 
made Murat king of Naples. Francis II, Emperor of Germany, 
recovered it by force of arms and bestowed it on Ferdinand I, 
which monarch died in the year 1825, and was succeeded by 
Francis I, and subsequentlv by the present king Francis II. In 
the year 1814 Naples contained 400,000 inhabitants and 40,000 
lazzaroni. The streets, like those of Florence, are paved with large 
irregular flat stones, the lava of Vesuvius ; the Toledo is the 
principal street — one mile in length. The pickpockets here are 
the most expert in the world — surpassing even those of London. 

Y\ 7 hen you wish to leave Naples, you must take your passport 
and pay the fees, and some of the offices are more than a mile 
apart ; it is a two days' job ; you generally employ a commissioner. 
This is the land of maccaroni and of cheap and good living ; the 
oheapest place yet, except the fashionable hotels, which are dear 
enough every where. 

Naples is, for picturesque beauty, the pride of Europe ; its bay 
is unrivalled ; all, man and horse, fields, flowers, trees, and 



40 

buildings, seem one union of artistic beauty. Glorious, unique 
Naples ! with three hundred churches, and forty thousand beggars, 
every street a picture and every point a subject for the artist. 
Friars, monks and priests, in shoals. The gullibility of the human 
race is here fully developed, for a more good-natured, joyous, and 
rascally community never existed; they are not hypocrites, for 
they make no pretensions to virtue. The streets are a vast crowd 
of human beings going to and fro ; all seem to live in the streets, 
The houses are too tall and the streets too narrow and gloomy 
to find comfort in their dreary and poverty-struck apartments, 
so under the clear blue canopy in the fresh air they seem to eat, 
to live, and to be merry. But there are many splendid sights and 
places in Naples; the Royal Academy of study, containing many 
fine pictures, with a large and most precious collection of antique 
statues ; among them the Hercules and Flora, from Caracalla's 
Baths at Rome, and many others from Herculaneum, Pompeii, and 
Egypt ; urns, armor, utensils, mosaic pavements, and Hercula- 
neum vases ; all free to the public, in a most noble, well-arranged 
and spacious building, with cheap rides to all parts and places in 
the vicinity, and beautiful white grapes at a halfpenny per 
pound. 

The theatre of St. Carlo is considered for grandeur and beauty 
the finest in the world ; it was built by Angelo Caresale after a 
design by Ametrano, in the year 1737. When I was in Naples, 
there was quite an uproar on account of the theatre being put 
under the care of the holy fathers, who insisted on the French 
ballet girls wearing trowsers ! and the portraits of Jenny Lind, as 
exhibited in the shop windows in London, were not allowed to be 
sold until the bare arms and neck were chalked over to represent 
black lace ; and they fully carried out these prohibitions by 
covering the nude statues in the churches, both here and at 
Rome. 

The Yiew now passes by Naples, with the mole and harbour, 
the castle of St. Elmo crowning the whole. Passing the city, to 
Mount Vesuvius and the town of Portici, beneath which lies 
Herculaneum, the lava is too hard to explore the town, and the 
attempt is abandoned ; the rail-road now passes over it. I lay 
six days in quarantine in the harbor for fear of cholera ; I had 
therefore an opportunity of making a fine oil painting of Vesuvius, 
with the white smoke continually ascending from it. Around the 
extreme point, at the base of the mountain, is the site of Pompeii, 
and passing on we have the whole extent of the shores of the Bay 
of Naples, with the towns of Castellamare and Annunciato, 
and the picturesque island of Capri, full of rocky crags, palm- 
trees, and ruins. The Grotto Azzura, or Blue Cave in the Island 
of Capri, is an object of wonderful interest. 

The View now changes to the city of Naples, the Villa Reale, 
the aristocratic part of the city, which is a splendid garden or 



41 

park, on the shores of the bay ; it is ornamented with beautiful 
marble statues and fountains, and brilliantly lighted in the summer 
months, and thronged with well-dressed and fashionable people. 
Behind the distant mil is the grotto of Posilippo, two miles through, 
and excavated by the Eomans. The Yiew moves on to the 
common or market streets, near the Piazza del Spirito Santo, 
or square of the Holy Ghost ; here are groups of Neapolitans eating 
maccaroni. The funeral processions among the genteel classes, 
are much the same as those in Rome; the white masks are the 
friends of the deceased, as pall-bearers, each bearing a lighted 
taper, and the holy fathers at the head are chanting the funeral 
service. The Yiew moves on, the common vehicles, where a 
poor horse carries his customary load of eighteen or twenty, 
a regular social and democratic republic ! The streets are paved 
with large square slabs of lava, which enables a carriage to be 
drawn easily. On the steps of the public buildings are seen the 
lazzaroni coming up to the scratch ; there are always a great 
number of them around the mole and lighthouse ; Naples contains 
not less than 40,000 ! 

A funeral procession of a young maiden : the body is placed on 
the outside of a coffin, with a flower in the mouth, the Capuchins 
chanting ; the relatives overcome with grief, are throwing bon-bons, 
sugar plums, over the body, and the unfeeling boys in the street 
are scrambling for them. When the procession reaches the Campo 
Santo, or burial ground, the body is deposited inside the tombs 
like ovens, and sealed up if they have the means to pay for it, 
otherwise a vault is opened at dusk and the bodies of the poor of 
that day are cast therein, and a few bushels of quick lime follow. 
There are three hundred and sixty-five vaults, one for each day in 
the year, and the vault closed up will not be reopened until the 
corresponding day in the following year. 



ASCENT OF YESUYIUS. 

To ascend Yesuvius, you may always procure plenty of mules, 
horses and guides at Portici, or Pompeii ; fee for a horse two dol- 
lars. You go up on horseback to the Hermitage, amid luxuriant 
vineyards ; for the grapes of Yesuvius produce the finest and most 
favorite wines, lachryma christi. The sand, or ashes of the 
eruptions is dark brown. On arriving at the Hermitage, you 
leave the horses and begin climbing the steep part of the cone.^ I 
went up in twenty minutes, but it is very fatiguing ; the exertion 
causes your heart to palpitate excessively; there are great masses 
of lava'that look like the refuse of a foundry, or glass-house, and 
you have to pick out the soft parts of the sand to climb up, your 
feet sink in at every other step ; if they did not, you could not 
get up nor go down so steep an ascent. 



42 



THE IKTEKIOK OF THE CRATEE. 

"We have now arrived at the top, the vast chasm lies before us, 
and the crater is divided into two, and yon observe the division 
towards Pompeii ; it goes down a gradual descent about half-a- 
mile across, the sides are lined with deposits of pure sulphur, the 
rocks are of all colors, caused by being once red hot. The smoke 
issuing from a thousand fissures has, at night, the appearance of a 
delicate blue flame, and conveys to the mind, perhaps, some idea 
of the entrance to Pandemonium. At present the crater is nearly 
tranquil. 

AN ERUPTION OF VESUVIUS. 

A NEAR VIEW, 

Showing the manner in which the Crater discharges the Lava. 
The perpendicular height of Vesuvius is only 5,000 feet, though 
it appears as high as Mont Blanc, which is 15,000 feet. 

A GRAND VIEW OF AN ERUPTION FROM THE NAPLES SIDE. 

There are about 40 eruptions on record, commencing with the 
eruption of 79 of the Christian Era, that destroyed Pompeii, Stabia, 
and Herculaneum. Sometimes the fire breaks out half-way down 
the mountain, generally on one side or the other ; the eruptions 
are always different; it is on record that during one the ashes 
reached Constantinople, 750 miles, and the column of smoke was 
computed at thirty miles high ; several persons were killed at the 
last eruption by going too near ; among them, an American officer 
belonging to the squadron, a large red-hot stone fell upon his 
shoulder and crushed him; as to sticking pieces of coin in the 
lava, it was all cold and hard as iron when I saw it. You could 
cook eggs in the smoky fissures in the crater ! but the guide 
would not permit me to go far, as the gas, at times, is fatal. The 
inhabitants around Vesuvius are always aware when an eruption 
is about to take place, by the water in the wells and springs 
failing. 

RUINS OF POMPEH. 



Poet Laureate to Prince Albert. 

Suggested by a view of the Ruins of Pompeii, in Smith's moving 

Panorama, " The Tour of Europe." 

Amid thy ruins, Pompeii, my spirit walks to-day, 

In search of thy magnificence, thy glory passed away ; 

'Mid crumbling columns, wrecks of ancient grandeur, do I tread, 

Like some lorn ghost come back to mourn the city of the dead. 



4:3 

I gaze upon thy frescoed walls, upon each ruin'd shrine, 
Whose desolation hatl* a voice, and speaks in tones divine ; 
I stand beneath thy Temple, where, two thousand years ago, 
Great Pliny found an unknown grave, in thy dread overthrow. 

"Within thy once majestic gates the pilgrim stranger comes, 
Musing around thy forum, and along thy street of tombs, 
As though thy disinterred dust and fragments did recall 
The lofty hopes, and throbbing hearts, that perished in thy fall. 

Great city ! mighty charnel house ! the iron pen of time 

Hath writ thy mournful history in characters sublime, 

For who, that mark'd thy pride of old, had thought that in one day 

Thy temples, halls, and palaces, should all have passed away ! 

Pompeii was covered with ashes to the depth of 20 to 30 feet. 
In the year 79 A.D. Pliny, the naturalist, who was a commander 
of the Roman fleet, lost his life in this eruption, at Stabia, and 
history is indebted for a full description to Pliny the younger, his 
nephew, in his letters to Tacitus. Stabia is supposed to be beneath 
Castellamare. Pompeii was buried under ashes and pumice 
stones, at the same time deluged with boiling water, and was ac- 
cidentally discovered in 1751 by some peasants while cultivating 
a vineyard. 

The general appearance is a number of garden walls, with rude 
coarse paintings, in fresco, the floors are generally mosaic, but 
coarse ; the streets are about eight feet wide, four feet between 
the side walks, with the worn ruts, in the stone, where carriages 
must have travelled ; there were no windows fronting the streets, 
but a quadrangle to each house, and the light came from the gar- 
den part, as glass for windows was seldom used, but plenty of 
glass bottles, goblets, and vases ; the common steelyard for weigh- 
ing was in general use, and on some Roman tombs was sculptured 
the common buck saw. There are wine cellars, cooking ranges, 
mills for grinding corn, and many other interesting things to see. 
All the valuable statues, urns, marbles, etc., have been removed 
to the museum at Naples. Nearly all the houses are only one 
story high, but the public temples have been very splendid; 
there is one street containing only tombs. In the house of Dio- 
medes was found the skeleton of Marcus Arrius Diomedes, near 
to the garden gate, with a key in one hand, and gold ornaments 
in the other ; behind him was another skeleton, probably his 
servant, with vases of silver and bronze. In three subterraneous 
corridors, which appear to have been used for cellars, seventeen 
skeletons were found ; and not more than fifty altogether have 
been discovered, including those of some priests in the temple 
of Isis. About 3,000 persons are supposed to have perished in 
Pompeii alone. The vessels now in general use are the same 
apparently as they were eighteen hundred years ago. The public 
edifices were spacious and elegant, and the whole town was wa- 
tered by the Sarno, which seems to have been carried through it 
by means of subterranean canals. 



44 

There were four entrances to Pompeii, namely, the Hercula- 
neum gate, the Sarno or Sea gate, the Isiac gate, and the Kola 
gate. 



THE TEMPLE OF VENUS, 

IN THE RUINS OF POMPEII. 

Here is an altar for sacrifice and a statue of Hermes ; there 
was a small statue of Yenus, which was found on a raised part in 
the centre, which is now removed to the museum at Naples. The 
columns are stucco, over brick and lava; the colors on the walls 
are bright vermilion of the most vivid hue, though we have no 
modern fresco red that will stand two thousand years ; the mould- 
ings and columns show how well they understood building at 
that remote period, and from the number of statues that were 
found in this temple it was one of their most sacred ; in some of 
the temples the capitals of the columns are cut out of lava, and 
when struck ring like bronze. 



THE FORUM. 

This, when perfect, was adorned with marble columns on each 
side, most of which have been carried away to enrich modern 
buildings, and was paved with marble flags. The entrance to 
this piazza was through the arches on each side of the temple of 
Jupiter, with a fine statue of that deity being opposite. Pompeii 
had been severely injured by earthquakes before the eruption, 
and the repairs were proceeding, when finally overwhelmed. 
This view shows the position of the mountain as seen from the 
city. 



RESTORATION OF THE FORUM. 

In this tableau I have given the appearance of the Forum as it 
was before the eruption, 2,000 years ago. After I made the draw- 
ing for this Yiew, I walked with it in my hand through every 
portion of the ruins to satisfy myself of its accuracy. The tem- 
ples, statues, and costumes are all from accurate documents, and 
the Yiew changing to the eruption, may give the visitors an idea 
of that terrible visitation, and recall to the mind the last days of 
that ill-fated city, and the last words of the high priest : 

" Pompeian slaves and Pompeian nobles, Arbaces defies ye." — Bulwer. 



45 



THE PBISON AND GUABDHOUSE. 

Here several skeletons were found, which were those of prison- 
ers, who had been confined in the stocks ; the Neapolitan work- 
men having penetrated through a small opening suddenly with 
their flambeaux came into the presence of these skeletons, which 
had been in this position for upwards of two thousand years ; the 
air consequently rushing in, these remains in a few hours fell to 
ashes, but the stocks are still shown in the prison. The finest 
statues and vases were found at Herculaneum, but it was found 
to be too hard and expensive to excavate, for there are marks of 
three or four deluges of lava since the first eruption, and it is 
from 40 to 80 feet below the present surface, and the lava must 
have been like boiling sand ; it has flowed into the windows and 
doors, and filled up the houses into a solid mass of cement or soft 
stone, and the dark caverns, that have been excavated among the 
ruins of Herculaneum, leave but little scope for a picture. There 
are 40 feet of lava and ashes above the city, and you hear the 
carriages rolling through the streets of Portici, above the ruins. 
The total depth of the excavation in the theatre is 120 feet, all the 
paper rolls and documents that have been found are carbonized 
by the heat, and the wooden beams are charcoal ; but few skele- 
tons have been found, although enough to show that some 7 or 8 
thousand persons must have perished in that great eruption of 
79, in the three cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabia, 
and the surrounding country, and in the midst of intense darkness 
and suffocating vapors. To look at Vesuvius in its present tran- 
quil state, you cannot realize the terrors of an eruption ! of a 
stream of molten lava half a mile wide, a flowing river of fire 7 
miles long, and that will retain a portion of its heat for 3 or 4 
years afterwards. 



BLUE GBOTTO— ISLAND OF CAPBI, 

24 miles from Naples. 

I left Naples by the rail for Castellamare, 18 miles, and from 
there took a caleche, a one-horse chaise, for Sorrento, 6 miles fur- 
ther ; they drive in the wildest manner, and the most spirited of 
all the horses I ever saw. The scenery is the finest of all that you 
have yet seen — winding along the shores of the bay — sometimes 
looking down from a height of 5 or 600 feet upon the bay and 
perpendicular walls of rock, or by the side of groves of orange 
and lemon trees, and vines and roses, and the cool breeze and 
dashing speed you are rushing along — 

(" 'Twere worth ten years of peaceful life, 
One glance at that array." — Walt. Scott.) 



46 

from Sorrento to the Blue Grotto. Twelve miles distant you take 
a boat with 4 oarsmen, but never go that way if you can help it. 
On my return, I was caught half way with the sirocco, (a gale 
of wind that comes up in 10 minutes,) and although I have twice 
crossed the Atlantic, I never came so near taking my last sketch, 
and was only saved from the roaring waves and tornado with the 
boat half full of water, by taking refuge on board a large fisherman 
with 40 men ; so always come by the steamer which leaves Naples 
every Monday for Capri. 

This grotto has not been discovered many years, and the en- 
trance to which is by a boat through a small aperture in the rock, 
where the sea rushes in, but when it is rough you cannot enter, 
as the small boat entirely fills the opening ; within, the water has 
a bright azure appearance from the reflection of the light though 
the water, nearly as brilliant as in the doctors' bottles in the 
shop windows. The Emperor Tiberius had a fine castle on this 
island, and with the secret passages of which, there is no doubt, 
this grotto was connected. The island is one of the most beauti- 
ful, and the climate very salubrious ; it is visited by prodigious 
numbers of quails which resort here annually from Africa. We 
now finish our tour with a view of 

THE GROTTO OF AMIPAROS, 

FEOM A VIEW TAKEN BY A FRENCH TRAVELLER. 

This celebrated grotto is situated in the Island of Antiparos, in 
the Grecian Archipelago. Here are seen the stalactites hanging 
down, and the stalagmite rising up to meet it, in every variety of 
color, and forming a most beautiful coup oVoeil to the imagina- 
tion, and which brings us to the end of our journey, or represen- 
tation, and the commencement of the next, as the Panorama moves 
alternately, commencing either with St. Ouen or with Antiparos. 



Siege and Bombardment of Sebastopol, 

AND EEVIEW OF THE ALLIED TROOPS. 

The exhibition is so arranged as always to finish with the Siege 
of Sebastopol ; the all absorbing interest of this great event draws 
the attention of the world, and every charge, attack and move- 
ment of both parties is regarded with the most intense interest. 
It has been commenced and conducted upon such a gigantic scale 
as the world has never before witnessed. The enormous number 
of 600 vessels of war, constituting the fleet that set out for the 
Crimea, the 70,000 dead, wounded and missing, the millions that. 



47 

every day costs, the mismanagement, disease and starvation, is ales- 
son for humanity ! ! Let us sit in our arm chair and see in minia- 
ture a representation of these mighty events ; the movements of 
months pass by in minutes. First we have the terrible tempest of 
Nov. 14, when the Prince steamer with two million and a half dol- 
lars of clothing and stores were lost, together with 46 vessels and 
transports, when the Turkish ship of the line went down with TOO 
men on board. The storm clears off — sunset on the Black Sea — 
the American frigate St. Lawrence — the Allied fleet in battle array 
— firing upon Sebastopol — the French Admiral's ship — a full vieAv 
of the fortifications, which are described in the lecture. The ships 
fire, it is returned by the forts, red hot shot are fired — a grand 
battle and bombardment takes place — part of the town is on fire, 
the fury of the battle is shown on sea and land, and when it ceases 
Sebastopol remains unchanged, unharmed from its terrible assault, 
and with it closes our Tour of Europe. The author hopes that his 
endeavors have been successful, and that those that are pleased 
with the picture will recommend it to their friends as a work 
of art and information. 



ADDENDA. 



Notwithstanding the immense length of this Panorama, I have 
not been able to give more than the great features of the Conti- 
nent ; more would render it tedious. I have been obliged to leave 
out Vienna, which is very picturesque, but not worth the expense 
and toil of the journey, as the railways are not completed, and the 
Danube cannot always be traversed in a steamer ; when the water 
is too high, they cannot go under the bridges ; if too low, there is 
not enough. Genoa is very fine, and the palaces well worth view- 
ing. The palace saloon of Marquis Serra, which is the finest in 
Europe, and cost one million 200 thousand francs for the one 
room. Turin is the handsomest situated city in Europe, surround- 
ed by the snowy Alps, and is the most flourishing on the conti- 
nent, and added 20,000 to their population last year ; it is the only 
real free government on the continent. The rail being complete to 
Genoa, renders it easy of access, and the collections of arms and 
pictures are as fine as at Dresden. Genoa and Turin should never 
be skipped by on a continental route. 

I exhibited at Munich for two months. The city itself is nothing, 
but the great buildings are wonderful. The Glyptoteck, Pinako- 
teck, the Triumphal Arch, and many others built by Ludwig I., 
the Ex-King of Bavaria. Munich has done much for the arts un- 
der his reign, than all the other cities upon the continent ; but 
they acted towards me in a most shabby manner, refusing to let 
me exhibit any longer, as the Court Theatre protested against it 
— turn an artist out of Munich for bringing a picture there ! — that 



48 

attracted the whole of its population, King, Queens, princes, dukes, 
nobles and priests. 

In the preceding pages I have several times noticed the annoy- 
ance to which travellers on the continent are exposed on account 
of their passports, and in order to give the reader some idea of the 
trouble and expense of getting them signed at one place only, I 
have subjoined the following extract from a modern Guide Book. 

Passports. — On arriving at Naples the passports are taken to 
the police office and a printed paper given to the owner ; by pre- 
senting this at the office previous to leaving, (if within fourteen 
days,) the passport will be returned ; it must then be signed by 
the English minister, afterwards by the Neapolitan minister for for- 
eign affairs ; and lastly, by the minister of the country that you 
next intend to visit. If Marseilles, the French ; Genoa, the Sar- 
dinian ; Rome, the Pope's Nuncio ; Leghorn, the Tuscan. 

Fees for Signing. — Police, 52 granas ; Foreign Office, 120 ; 
Pope's Nuncio, 63 $ French, 70 ; Sardinian, 96 : Tuscan, 60 ; 
Steam packet Agent, 30. The English minister gives his signa- 
ture gratis. The usual fee to the commissioner for getting the 
signatures is about one piaster. All these fees must be paid and 
every signature obtained before you are permitted to leave. After 
much experience in travelling upon the continent, I am convinced 
that the passport system is a good one when properly done ; that 
without it you would be robbed or murdered on your travels, but 
detection is now so sure, that there is not half the physical dis- 
honesty upon the continent that there is in England and America, 
but a great deal of moral dishonesty ; it is a rule all over the con- 
tinent to charge a stranger half as much more as the regular price ; 
the moment you lisp English you are taken in and done for. What 
is wanting is the abolition of the fees, and only the signature of 
the police to your pass, bearing the great seal of your native land. 
That when your own government have given you a pass, you do 
not require a visa from any other minister, except in case of war. 

I now beg to remind my readers, that I have endeavored to con- 
dense into as short a space as possible the descriptions of our -tour, 
as a volume may be written on each subject. To convey general 
information was my aim ; if more be required, you can purchase 
expensive travels on any of these topics, or may procure them 
from libraries. If I have in any measure contributed to remind 
the learned of what they have read, or to amuse my readers for an 
hour, I have accomplished my task. And with all due respect 
remain Yours, respectfully, 

JOHN R. SMITH. 

New-York, 1855. 



Machinist of the Panorama, Mr. THOS. LADD. 

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